Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
A Few Moments of Pleasure
5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 1 from 2
votes
Routes in The Upper Great Face
|
|
A Few Moments of Pleasure T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
Big Steep, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
Brass Junkie T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
|
|
Forgotten Pulse T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
|
|
Golden Monkey, The T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
|
|
Golden Staircase, pitches 12, 13, 14, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Hotness, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
|
|
Paul's Boutique T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
|
|
Tomfoolery S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Wiffle Ball Bat S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 802 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Jul 4, 2004 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Area Closure ended but timed entry permits are REQUIRED
Details
Per Julius Beres & Matt B: $2 timed entry permits issued by RMNP are definitely required if you arrive after 9a and before 3p.
Per Bob Siegrist: as of 6/11/20, the parking areas are no longer blocked off. RMNP is open.
Per Matt B: this area is currently closed to all visitors due to temporary RMNP closures. The entire parking area is blocked off. Please do not threaten access to this area by climbing during this closure to all visitors.
Per Bob Siegrist: as of 6/11/20, the parking areas are no longer blocked off. RMNP is open.
Per Matt B: this area is currently closed to all visitors due to temporary RMNP closures. The entire parking area is blocked off. Please do not threaten access to this area by climbing during this closure to all visitors.
Description
This is a pleasant route up the left side of the Upper Great Face of the Crags. It runs up 2 pitches starting up a small, right-facing dihedral perhaps 35 feet right of the 1st overhanging bit from the left side of the Upper Face. This route is probaby not the ultimate in rock quality; however, for a nice climb, with a moderate approach (alpine standards), for an alpine-feeling climb it may fit in as part of your day.
Determining where to start may be the crux. From below, you can find a recessed pod about 110 feet up where P1 ends.
P1. The very start is in a wider crack in a shallow RFD. There is a good ledge 20 feet up. The RFD peters out about 40 feet up into face climbing. The crux lies about 30 feet up where you pull through a bulging section than could be harder for short folks. A #3.5 Camalot or #4 Friend may be helpful here. About 60 feet up you make a pleasant traverse left about 15 feet to gain more moderate rock to the belay in a rectangular inset. We removed a large, very-unstable block about 100 feet up. The belay can protect with a medium hex, a large cam (#4 Camalot at least), and possibly a slung loose chockstone.
P2. Go up and right using the wide crack in the corner with face holds to a pin. The holds seem slick and slopey as you go up to a good ledge. Follow your nose up more moderate rock to the top. Note, there is quite a bit of loose rock at the top of this pitch. Be careful as you go up this bit to find a belay above.
The descent can certainly be the crux. If the weather is good, you may find continuing up and right to the summit and then down the gully between the Upper & Lower Great Face to be more straightforward. However, if you are up for adventure, walk down & left (NW) to find a chimney descent. This selection may be the challenge. Allegedly there is a chockstone to sling and rap 75 feet per R. Rossiter's Crag Areas guidebook. Hmmm. There is also a very tight slot (probably the 4th chimney, & the last one before the ridge starts to fall away) that we used & found a loose nut with a biner than someone used to rappel. A belay down a 25 foot chimney (fixed a #11 BD wire) & 2 short licheny downclimbs may be one way down. The pleasure factor may be a bit low on this descent.
It carries a 2 star rating in B. Gillett's Estes Park Valley guidebook. 1.5 stars IMHO.
Determining where to start may be the crux. From below, you can find a recessed pod about 110 feet up where P1 ends.
P1. The very start is in a wider crack in a shallow RFD. There is a good ledge 20 feet up. The RFD peters out about 40 feet up into face climbing. The crux lies about 30 feet up where you pull through a bulging section than could be harder for short folks. A #3.5 Camalot or #4 Friend may be helpful here. About 60 feet up you make a pleasant traverse left about 15 feet to gain more moderate rock to the belay in a rectangular inset. We removed a large, very-unstable block about 100 feet up. The belay can protect with a medium hex, a large cam (#4 Camalot at least), and possibly a slung loose chockstone.
P2. Go up and right using the wide crack in the corner with face holds to a pin. The holds seem slick and slopey as you go up to a good ledge. Follow your nose up more moderate rock to the top. Note, there is quite a bit of loose rock at the top of this pitch. Be careful as you go up this bit to find a belay above.
The descent can certainly be the crux. If the weather is good, you may find continuing up and right to the summit and then down the gully between the Upper & Lower Great Face to be more straightforward. However, if you are up for adventure, walk down & left (NW) to find a chimney descent. This selection may be the challenge. Allegedly there is a chockstone to sling and rap 75 feet per R. Rossiter's Crag Areas guidebook. Hmmm. There is also a very tight slot (probably the 4th chimney, & the last one before the ridge starts to fall away) that we used & found a loose nut with a biner than someone used to rappel. A belay down a 25 foot chimney (fixed a #11 BD wire) & 2 short licheny downclimbs may be one way down. The pleasure factor may be a bit low on this descent.
It carries a 2 star rating in B. Gillett's Estes Park Valley guidebook. 1.5 stars IMHO.
2 Comments