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(3) Long Lane
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A Dream of White Dragons 
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A Dream of White Dragons 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
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Page Views: 69
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Oct 29, 2011
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Me climbing, Karissa belaying

Description 

The crux is getting off the ground. Place a piece as high as you can reach, then high-step and lieback-jam to establish yourself in the crack. Follow this semi-sustained bit, trying not to cheat when it turns into a bit of a rampy dihedral. Then you're on a ledge big enough to sleep a small army. Continue up towards the orange face split by an obvious, slightly overhanging crack. Using face holds and jams, send this short bit of sweetness until you're below the belay ledge. Pop some gear, mantel up (5.8), and you're done.


Location 

Dead center of Long Arete


Protection 

Gear to 2". Brand new two-bolt webbing/cord anchor and rap rings.



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