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 ADVANCED
Lower Blair III
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Dream of Fat Antelope T 
A Horse Will Have To Do T 
Arete Already T 
Bragging About Jesus S 
Bullwinkle T 
Damit T 
Empty Suit T 
Five Finger Discount T,S 
Go Left, Old Man, Go Left T 
Hard to Believe T 
Inconvenient Angles T 
Inner Notch T 
Intimidation T 
Jogging to Vedauwoo T 
La Femme Takeda T 
Ledge of the World, The T 
Middle Notch T,TR 
Outer Notch T 
Penetration T 
Pretty Girls with Long Knives T 
Random Crystals T 
Scratch the Surface T 
Sketch Palsy S 
Sweet Variation T 
Take 5 T 
Unicorn Exterminator T 
Unremembered T 
Unsorted Routes:

A Dream of Fat Antelope 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Rob Kelman, Glenn Murray 1995
Page Views: 785
Submitted By: Tom T on Jun 15, 2008

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Begin approximately 10 feet left of Random Crystals in a low-angle, hand crack. Head straight up and bust right at a ledge. A slightly heady move off of the ledge takes you past a short, flared section and into a great hand crack. Belay at a rap station 5 feet right of the finish.

There are two options for descent: scramble off to the south (my personal preference) or use the rap station. It seemed like there was potential for a stuck or damaged rope due to the location of the rap bolts.

Location 

This is on the NW side of Blair III, just right of the route are two parallel cracks [2 feet apart] that angle up and left.

Protection 

Black Diamond #0.75 - #3 and several runners, maybe an extra #2. A stopper fits well at the crux but probably wouldn't keep you off the ledge if you fell.


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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 12, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

The move off the ledge and up into the bulging OW can be protected by a cam pushed up overhead, but it is still difficult. It's more than just "heady."