P1: Climb the ramp to the roof (optional 5" piece), traverse left to the corner and continue directly up corner through a series of roofs and bulges (crux). Once the angle backs off trend left through the next roof, continue up the corner. Traverse right to the bolts at the top of the second pitch of Muscle Beach. (150' 5.10+)
P2: Move up then trend left to the arete. Follow the arete up through a final bulge at the top, ending just right of Ecstasy. (5.7 50')
The first pitch features very sustained climbing with some significant sections of questionable gear. Alot of loose rock was cleaned through multiple attempts but some still remains.
On the south end left of the cave. Look for a black ramp between the start of Sixth Sense and Muscle Beach. Either locate the cave rappel or hike to descend.
This route was established ground up with out the use of any fixed protection. No old pitons, or other signs of climbing were found on the route. The first pitch requires a large rack beyond the standard Seneca rack. Micro-nuts, nuts, tri-cams, single set of cams to 3", double to 1.5", extra slings, triple micro cams in the 1 to 2 TCU range would not go unused. Double ropes are useful for managing the drag and the loose rock. The first pitch shares the bolted station of Muscle Beach's 2nd pitch. The second pitch anchor is gear and natural features at the top of the cliff.
|By Dan Ressler|
Oct 10, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
My partner won the rock flip for the lead of the second ascent of this new line. The route looks like it should be awkward and hopelessly pumpy. Instead, you get clean, interesting stemming, laybacks and creative stances most of the way. We both remarked how you'll arrive at what looks like a really hard part, then you do one or two stiff moves and then a stance just appears. The route reminded us of Agony, for how long and sustained it is, but the style is unlike anything else at Seneca.
I sent this past weekend 10/23/11. It's such a good climb and the protection is not bad (PG). Some of the rock is a little flaky, so I was very redundant with gear. It's nice to plug a #5 in the initial roof. Otherwise, I recommend a rack up to #3, with doubles from #00 C3 to #1 C4, and a Seneca set of nuts.
The climb gets sun most of the day.