A Deal with the Devil
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 1.2 from 13 votes
Type: | Sport |
FA: | Nate Postma (1990) |
Page Views: | 865 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Kris Gorny on Jul 18, 2006 |
Admins: | K Ice, Kris Gorny |
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Description
The beginning of this route shares the dihedral and bolts with Talking with God. Climb up the dihedral to just under the roof. From here do a delicate traverse protected with a rusty, unreliable bolt (use long draws under the roof!). Pull the lip of the roof on the left, clip another bolt and climb to the shuts (some loose rock).
This isn't actually a bad route, the moves are interesting and the traverse is fun. However, given the combination of rusty bolts and rotten rock above the roof, until the bolts get replaced, climbing it should be considered very risky. If you fall from above the roof and the bolt rips, you could easily deck.
This isn't actually a bad route, the moves are interesting and the traverse is fun. However, given the combination of rusty bolts and rotten rock above the roof, until the bolts get replaced, climbing it should be considered very risky. If you fall from above the roof and the bolt rips, you could easily deck.
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