A Deal with the Devil
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The beginning of this route shares the dihedral and bolts with Talking with God. Climb up the dihedral to just under the roof. From here do a delicate traverse protected with a rusty, unreliable bolt (use long draws under the roof!). Pull the lip of the roof on the left, clip another bolt and climb to the shuts (some loose rock).
This isn't actually a bad route, the moves are interesting and the traverse is fun. However, given the combination of rusty bolts and rotten rock above the roof, until the bolts get replaced, climbing it should be considered very risky. If you fall from above the roof and the bolt rips, you could easily deck.
bolts. please use your own gear for toprope.
Oct 25, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Continuously sandy and dirty, and speckled with little rust spots (they used to be bolts - back in 1975(?)), climbing this route is an adventure. It's more dangerous than a couple of R rated 10's that I've done elsewhere, and ties with ESP for most dangerous route at the crag.
Could be a good route with fresh bolts and some traffic.
By Darin Limvere
Oct 31, 2007
Be sure to traverse with your hands a couple feet below the roof. It's a whole different climb if you traverse at the roof. Unfortunately, there's still an old rusted out, possibly home made bolt that protects the traverse. I saw it hold a fall about 9 years ago. Who knows what would happen now.