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Tony Bubb climbing A-Cute Pain, Dec 2003(?) Michel...
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At the far right end of Sweet Pain Wall lies this short system of a few bolts and a left-leaning crack in the middle. It is the easiest route on the wall.Climb up and right past a bolt onto a right-leaning crack. Follow this briefly (moderate climbing) until you can step left to juggy holds and another bolt. Pull onto the steeper face here and continue up past another bolt to a set of fixed anchors up top.
If you place gear in the crack a longer sling will keep it from walking or creating Rope Drag.
# draws for the bolts, plus some 1-2" cams for between the bolts (and a long sling for them). A very solid 5.8 leader would probably feel just fine without the gear in the easier section and do it with bolts alone.