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Bulletheads South
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A Cream of White Mice T 
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A Cream of White Mice 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Peter Croft, Tami Knight 1978
Page Views: 1,577
Submitted By: ScottH on Sep 7, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Description 

A Cream of White Mice is a memorable Peter Croft route; one that has made me forever leery of his climbs. Sometimes a single section of a climb defines a route, and sometimes a single word defines that section. For this climb, that word is smooth. Or traverse. Or unprotectable. Take your pick.

P1. Begin from a cedar groove that leads to a suprisingly airy, bolted arete. Climb the arete to a stance at the base of a dike. Some gear is needed near the top of the arete. Stiff 5.8.

P2. Follow the dike up and left on easy terrain. Occasionally sparse but adequate gear. Belay at bolts on the left of the arete. 5.4

P3. Climb slightly up from the belay, then traverse right across the smooth wall to a belay in the corner. Suffice to say this is heady and not short. The crux comes early in the traverse. 5.9

P4. Continue up the corner to the forest. Initially awkward, and a non-trivial exit. 5.9

It is possible to combine P3&P4 with a 60m rope. A brave soul will climb well into the corner after the traverse before placing a piece for the sake of her second; a coward (me) will throw gear in at the first opportunity.

Location 

To descend, walk-off, passing Xenolith Dance en route to Bullethead Ledge.

Protection 

Gear to 2". There is a placement available in the dyke above and left of the start of the traverse (~.5 camalot) which protects the hardest section for the leader. Protection for the second is a cool head.


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By Mike Teschke
From: North Vancouver
May 31, 2009

There is a belay station a little low and off to the right of the old belay station at the end of the second pitch. If you use this belay station there are 3-4 bolts direct up the slab that takes you into the traverse. (Maybe 10a slab) The last bolt sorta protects the crux of the traverse so you don't have to stuff any gear in the high crack (still super run out though). This also serves as a direct line up to the 11a bolted direct finish.
By Adam Kimmerly
Jul 8, 2009

A direct start now exists that adds 5 bolts extending to the toe of the arete for some additional slab climbing with an easy 5.10 crux at the 5th bolt. From the first belay we followed the dike/crack up and left to the higher bolted anchor. The dike straight up had a couple of bolts at the end so we forged on straight up for pitch 3. Runout 5.8 clmbing on the slick dike got us to a 4 or 5-bolt slab with a hard 5.10 crux past the last bolt. Not sure of the ID/grade of the last pitch, but it was fun! Made 4 raps to the ground with a 70m rope. Not sure a single 60m would reach for the first rap from the top.
By Adrian Lazar
Jul 28, 2011

A fun route that has a bit of everything. The first pitch has been rebolted (5 bolts) so that you can start climbing the arete right off the deck. p3 traverse can be a bit airy, but you could climb a little higher before the traverse and place a cam to help minimize the swing.

p1: bolt anchor
p2-3: gear anchors
p4: tree anchor

We descended the first two pitches rapping on trees and then took the trail down.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Jul 17, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I don't think anyone mentions it here, but that 1st pitch variation that is all bolted on the arete to the left is 10c called 2 Rats and a Titmouse, and has 2 spots with widely spaced bolts that also happen to be the thin crux moves. I happen to like the crack all the way to the belay- it is very nice IMO.