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A remarkable stem problem that Steve Hong claimed would be, "impossible for people under 5'6"". Don't know if this is true, but most of the pitch requires splits-style stemming between the good corner on the right and incipient features on the left...flexibility is a must! A bolt protects the crux section at about 1/3 height. The upper bit eases off as a shallow corner-crack materializes on the left. Those legs will be worked by the top! A proud lead or a great TR from the anchors on P1 of Tulgey Wood.
The shallow left-facing corner immediately left of P1 of Tulgey Wood.
1 bolt, lots of assort small stoppers and cams. Extended runners recommended as you protect both cracks.
|By Sean Nelb|
From: Grand Junction, CO
May 7, 2011
Thanks to small cams and nuts, this route protects very well using just the right crack, eliminating the need for long slings or double ropes. It's a good challenge if El Matador just felt a little too easy. A 70 m rope will lower you back to fourth class section at the bottom.