A Bridge Too Far  5.11d

756 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet Consensus:  5.11d [details] FA:  Todd Skinner, Mark Sonnenfeld, Steve Hong June 27, 1983 Submitted By:  Trevor Bowman on Jun 23, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Devils Tower National Monument Lifts Current Prairie Falcon Climbing Route Closure MORE INFO >>> 07/01/2012: Because no falcon nesting activity has been observed, the prairie falcon nesting closures currently in effect will be removed on Sunday, July 1, thus opening these areas to normal recreational climbing activities. The areas to be reopened include on the northeast face, routes between and including “Belle Fourche Buttress” and “Maid in the Shaid” (routes #68 to #93), as well as the “North Face” rappel route. Separate from the falcon closure, Devils Tower National Monument has a voluntary climbing closure in effect for the month of June, out of respect for American Indian cultural traditions. For further information on climbing closures, please contact the monument’s Chief of Resource Management, Angela Wetz, at (307) 467-5283 ext 212 or Angela_Wetz@nps.gov. For general climbing information please contact the Devils Tower Climbing Office at 307-467-5283, ext. 632. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

A remarkable stem problem that Steve Hong claimed would be, "impossible for people under 5'6"". Don't know if this is true, but most of the pitch requires splits-style stemming between the good corner on the right and incipient features on the left...flexibility is a must! A bolt protects the crux section at about 1/3 height. The upper bit eases off as a shallow corner-crack materializes on the left. Those legs will be worked by the top! A proud lead or a great TR from the anchors on P1 of Tulgey Wood.

Location 

The shallow left-facing corner immediately left of P1 of Tulgey Wood.

Protection 

1 bolt, lots of assort small stoppers and cams. Extended runners recommended as you protect both cracks.