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West Face
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411 Southwest T 
A Bridge Too Far T 
Astro Glide S 
Avalon T 
Billie Bear Cranks the Rad T 
Bloodguard T 
Blotter is my Spotter T 
Brokedown Palace T 
Burning Down the House T 
Buster Cattlefield T 
California Dreaming T 
Carl's Face S 
Carol's Crack T 
Dead Point T 
Deadwood Express 
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Double Feature T 
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Heatwave 
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Lack of Enthusiasm S 
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Mr. Clean T 
Mystery Express S 
No Holds for Bonzo T 
One Way Sunset T 
Park Politics T 
Scottfree T 
Some Like it Hot T 
Spank The Monkey T 
Steal Away S 
Tulgey Wood T 
Up In Smoke T 
Way Layed T 
Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) T 

A Bridge Too Far 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Todd Skinner, Mark Sonnenfeld, Steve Hong June 27, 1983
Page Views: 875
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on Jun 23, 2009

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Voluntary Closure Every June and Seasonal Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A remarkable stem problem that Steve Hong claimed would be, "impossible for people under 5'6"". Don't know if this is true, but most of the pitch requires splits-style stemming between the good corner on the right and incipient features on the left...flexibility is a must! A bolt protects the crux section at about 1/3 height. The upper bit eases off as a shallow corner-crack materializes on the left. Those legs will be worked by the top! A proud lead or a great TR from the anchors on P1 of Tulgey Wood.


Location 

The shallow left-facing corner immediately left of P1 of Tulgey Wood.


Protection 

1 bolt, lots of assort small stoppers and cams. Extended runners recommended as you protect both cracks.



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By Sean Nelb
From: Grand Junction, CO
May 7, 2011

Thanks to small cams and nuts, this route protects very well using just the right crack, eliminating the need for long slings or double ropes. It's a good challenge if El Matador just felt a little too easy. A 70 m rope will lower you back to fourth class section at the bottom.