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Redgarden - S Buttress
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A Breed Apart 
Anthill Direct 
Archer McLanahan 
Back in Black 
Backstroke 
Backtalk 
Black Top 
Blackwalk 
Book of Numbers 
Bulge Indirect 
Bulge, The 
C'est La Fin 
C'est La Morte 
C'est La Vie 
Chromium Shore 
Cleopatra Says Happy Birthday to Anthony 
Continue-us 
Crack Variation 
Desdichado 
Dessert 
East Overhang 
East Side 
Edge of Night, The 
Exodus 
Flakes, The 
Genesis 
Genuine Risk Takers 
High Noon 
Horizontal Beginnings 
Je T'Aime 
La Vie d' Pansey 
Le Boomerang 
Left Side of Roark, The 
Mental Cruelty 
Night 
Noggin 
Off the List (aka Genuine Risk ?) 
Original Anthill 
PA's Variation 
Pansee Sauvage 
Pilgrim 
Pseudo Sidetrack 
Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish 
Redguard 
Restless Nights 
Semi-Wild 
Semi-Wild Slab 
Shades of Gray 
Sticky Feet 
To Night 
Trinity Cracks 
Vaporizer, The 
Variation to Lower Meadows 
Walk the Talk 
Whistle Stop, The 
Whittle Wall, The 
Whittle Whisk 

A Breed Apart 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: John Allen & Alec Sharp
Page Views: 458
Submitted By: steve dieckhoff on Nov 9, 2001
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  • Description 

    This is on page 331 of Rossiter's new Eldo guide.

    It is in the Blackwalk area, behind the Whale's Tail.

    To the left of Blackwalk and to the right of Back in Black is A BREED APART. There was a movie by this name with Rutger Hauer which involved a lot of climbing, shooting, and explosions.

    From the rampy traverse, head up into a bulge. Good protection can be arranged here including a large cam in a slot on the left. These protect the crux which is getting to a stance just above and to the left. Another large cam can be placed here. The rest of the pitch follows the same pattern-a few moves to a stance where good protection is found although the moves to the 'obvious crack' are rather balancy. Aim for an obvious crack, and follow that to finish on Blackwalk or finish left of the obvious crack on the 'Garibotti variation'.

    This route has been cleaned up a bit in recent years and, as I said, good protection is available at comfortable stances. It is easily toproped (60m) for a rehearsed lead if you wish.


    Protection 

    RPs, medium to #3 Camalot.



    Comments on A Breed Apart Add Comment
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    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Nov 17, 2003
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

    The rack for this climb is one 2.5" cam, then 2-3 each .75"-1.5" cams. That way you can double-down whenever you can get pro. As well, instead of pulling right the last few feet to finish on Blackwalk, you can ride a left-leading solid, clean fingers-to-wide-fingers crack (1-1.5") a far a ways up toward the anchor at 28M at the top of Blackwalk.

    This climb should probably carry the 11a rating, but is tougher for an on-sight. Fear notwithstanding, the crux move is kinda slick and hard- while gear is just below the feet you will be a little off kilter here-twisted and leaning, and a fall would be unpleasant though short. That said, you'd understand why I was F'ing around on it for a while trying to figure out a better position/move. Though I was on TR, the intention was a preview for a lead because I am a chicken about obscure R-rated 5.11s.

    What should be the real discouragement from leading is not the crux, nor the subjective hazard of falling off in the 'easy' section (5.10) where it is runout. Rather, it is the objective hazard of a shattered, 'crunchy' hold about 1/2 way through the runout popping. It is shifty as it is. I pulled on it pretty Darn hard before I saw what I was on and then when I saw it and looks down at the distance to last available pro, I didn't like it.

    Your opinion may vary, and while you'd have to flash this route to really experience it (as the crux will be 11a, not 11b/c once previewed), I can't in good conscience suggest that is a good idea. There's one time bomb up there in a dangerous spot, and it's blind until you make the move.

    By kiff
    Aug 14, 2012
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c R

    Worthless squeeze job.