|Redgarden - S Buttress
This is on page 331 of Rossiter's new Eldo guide.
It is in the Blackwalk area, behind the Whale's Tail.
To the left of Blackwalk and to the right of Back in Black is A BREED APART. There was a movie by this name with Rutger Hauer which involved a lot of climbing, shooting, and explosions.
From the rampy traverse, head up into a bulge. Good protection can be arranged here including a large cam in a slot on the left. These protect the crux which is getting to a stance just above and to the left. Another large cam can be placed here. The rest of the pitch follows the same pattern-a few moves to a stance where good protection is found although the moves to the 'obvious crack' are rather balancy. Aim for an obvious crack, and follow that to finish on Blackwalk or finish left of the obvious crack on the 'Garibotti variation'.
This route has been cleaned up a bit in recent years and, as I said, good protection is available at comfortable stances. It is easily toproped (60m) for a rehearsed lead if you wish.
RPs, medium to #3 Camalot.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 17, 2003
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
The rack for this climb is one 2.5" cam, then 2-3 each .75"-1.5" cams. That way you can double-down whenever you can get pro. As well, instead of pulling right the last few feet to finish on Blackwalk, you can ride a left-leading solid, clean fingers-to-wide-fingers crack (1-1.5") a far a ways up toward the anchor at 28M at the top of Blackwalk.
This climb should probably carry the 11a rating, but is tougher for an on-sight. Fear notwithstanding, the crux move is kinda slick and hard- while gear is just below the feet you will be a little off kilter here-twisted and leaning, and a fall would be unpleasant though short. That said, you'd understand why I was F'ing around on it for a while trying to figure out a better position/move. Though I was on TR, the intention was a preview for a lead because I am a chicken about obscure R-rated 5.11s.
What should be the real discouragement from leading is not the crux, nor the subjective hazard of falling off in the 'easy' section (5.10) where it is runout. Rather, it is the objective hazard of a shattered, 'crunchy' hold about 1/2 way through the runout popping. It is shifty as it is. I pulled on it pretty Darn hard before I saw what I was on and then when I saw it and looks down at the distance to last available pro, I didn't like it.
Your opinion may vary, and while you'd have to flash this route to really experience it (as the crux will be 11a, not 11b/c once previewed), I can't in good conscience suggest that is a good idea. There's one time bomb up there in a dangerous spot, and it's blind until you make the move.
Aug 14, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c R
Worthless squeeze job.