This route starts the same as Chief Crazy Horse (12a) for the first three bolts or so. When Chief Crazy Horse gets steep and angles up and slightly right, you cut up left, following about 4 independent bolts on steep jugs to a ledge that connects to the belay ledge start of Pony Express (5.11). Note that Chief Crazy Horse actually has two finishes. The original finish goes right at the bolted, angling crack to lower off anchors. This is probably 12a total (and an excellent route). An alternate finish was bolted that skips the traverse and instead heads directly up to a ledge. This is somewhat harder because it stacks another crux on top of the lower one. I was not sure after talking to Sean Shannon if someone redpointed this before I did. Anyway, I digressed because the route 95 Degrees In The Sun stays left of this straight up (harder) finish for Chief Crazy Horse, but ends up on the same ledge as the direct (harder) finish for Chief Crazy Horse. I did this FA of 95 Degrees In The Sun by accident, thinking I was on a route marked complete in the guidebook. It is worthwhile and fun.
Start on Chief Crazy Horse for about 3 bolts, angle left on steep jugs to a belay on a ledge.
about 7 bolts or so (originally bolted by Sean Shannon, Kevin Worrall). Finishes on a ledge with 2 bolt anchor. From there, you can rap, or continue straight up on 95 Degrees In The Shade (12a) or up and right on Pony Express (11). The real belay ledge at the start of 95 Degrees in The Shade is actually about 20 feet higher than this ledge.
From: San Diego, CA
Dec 3, 2012
Leavittator - it sounds like this is the first pitch (12a) of "95 Degrees in the Shade"?
I've done this route by clipping the first few bolts of "Crazy Horse" and then following a left bolt line (maybe 3 more bolts if memory serves) through steep terrain to a small ledge with an anchor.
I think the ACSD book has this pitch listed in it too.
Jan 8, 2013
Was the route red tagged when you did it? Maybe you are talking about the one I described above "An alternate finish was bolted that skips the traverse and instead heads directly up to a ledge"