|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]|
|Submitted By:||Spencer Anderson on Aug 16, 2012|
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By Spencer Anderson
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 16, 2012
|Thought this ending was better than Gun Tower. Maybe a little soft for the grade particularly with the rest. Also the sling on the last draw was getting cut up pretty bad by some of the sharp cobbles. I would have switched it but didn't have any draws with me.|
By Matthew Garvin
Jun 24, 2013
|The draw at the anchor has been removed as of 6-23-13. There are now two carabiners which seemed to fix the problem but keep an eye on you rope just to be safe.|
By dnoB ekiM
Sep 4, 2015
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
The fact that the description above says there is no distinct crux on this route is odd. The moves shortly after the knee bar on the shelf (AKA the crux) are at least V5 and are wayyyy harder than any other section on this route. The other hardish moves are the start, the gravely undercling and the moves by the chain draw...but at best...those sections are V3 (maybe only V2?).
Based upon my experience and those who I have discussed this route with...there is definitely a distinct crux on this route...and it is perfectly placed just below the last bolt...but it is significantly tamed by a bomber kneebar rest just before it.
This route is one of the best steep lines I have ever been on! A MUST do!