9.0mm rope as a trad/sport single rope?
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I'm a pretty experienced sport climber getting into trad and was wondering if people could help me out with this. I really want to get a rope that's light but will still take a few falls. I'm wondering if a 9.0mm rope marketed as a half would work as a single. Please discuss and let me know what you think. |
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Are you under 50 lbs? |
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Unless you are in the Alpine where weight Reallyt matters, than I would say no. |
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You should buy my buddy's rope, it's 9.4mm. |
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Sterling 9.2 nano |
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10.5 is where it's at |
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you should definately fuck around and use a half rope. hell you might as well go thinner, or just use some cordelette. Its a half rope for a reason bud, those options for a single in the same range are golden for sure. |
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Half Ropes are nearly ALWAYS fallen on as a single cord. They are designed to survive at LEAST 1 "standard" UIAA single rope fall (FF 1.78, 80kg etc) . They test with the lower 55kg weight to get a better idea of how strong they are "above" the single 80kg Drop. |
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Take a bigger shit in the morning and use a 9.5 or bigger so you never feel the need to say "take". |
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Responding to the OP - back in the 90's, I actually seriously considered buying a 9.0mm half-rope to use as my sport redpoint rope. I already had two 10.5mm rope which I was using for trad and sport and there were only a small number of sub 10mm single ropes available back then. |
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Jace Mullen wrote:Unless you are in the Alpine where weight Reallyt matters, than I would say no.Lightweight sport climbers. Giggle. There are a few situations in which I would and do use a half rope as a single: very fast and light multipitch, alpine, and the odd situation where I happen to have doubles, but am going to do some playing around on straightforward single pitch stuff. These are all against recommended specs, so be aware. You will save money in the long run by getting a good solid single, say around 9.8. A super skinny won't make you climb any harder, and you pay more for a rope that just won't last. |
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I've been beating on an Edelweiss Performance 9.2mm 70 (now 63ish) for over three years. I'm considering replacing it just now. Just be judiscious with it. |
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Sam Lightner, Jr. wrote:Take a bigger shit in the morning and use a 9.5 or bigger so you never feel the need to say "take".Thanks for all the advice people. Way to work around all the angles, i'm super amped on getting a new rope. I won't be using a half as a single and will also avoid the low-diameter ropes as well, maybe a 9.5 - 10.0 range is more the rope I need. Strength and durability. Appreciate all the comments. |
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@JSH... |