A. 90 Second Wall Rock Climbing
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Elevation: | 6,594 ft |
GPS: |
39.73769, -105.3204 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 3,360 total · 18/month |
Shared By: | Luke Childers on Dec 28, 2008 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Description
Located above the Left Wire crag is a short wall housing two short, burly routes. Like Left Wire crag, it is not crowded and it's sunny and quiet. The routes are quite difficult and require more red point time than I would like to admit.
At only three bolts and LOs, the two routes weigh in at 5.13b and 5.12d/13a respectively. However, the ratings of the two routes have not been confirmed as to my present day knowledge.
To reach this small wall, traverse past the Left Wire crag to its leftmost gully. Climb up the gully and head back right towards the High Wire crag. Note: (This is also a way to reach the Higher Wire crag if one wished to do so). After traversing right for about the length of the Left Wire crag (50 yards?), you will see these two little devils on the wall to your left.
They are set on perfect stone and have decorative features. The route on the left of the wall is call: "Calculation 45" 5.13b. Climb up a short right arching seam under a small roof. Crank up to slopers, crimps and side pulls to gain the third bolt. A stiff finish is expected since the route never lets up. 3 bolts, LOs.
The route on the right is called: "Formula 45" 5.12d/13a. Climb in the small dihedral and stem up to a horizontal seam. Push ahead past a blank looking section to another horizontal. Don't bother to rest, just clip and fire up the impossible slopers and poor side pulls to the LOs. 3 bolts, LOs.
If you're at the Left Wire Crag and want some short, stiff climbing, then the 90 Second Wall is for you. Good luck to all those who dare and make sure you bring your best rope handler along with you. Slam it.
At only three bolts and LOs, the two routes weigh in at 5.13b and 5.12d/13a respectively. However, the ratings of the two routes have not been confirmed as to my present day knowledge.
To reach this small wall, traverse past the Left Wire crag to its leftmost gully. Climb up the gully and head back right towards the High Wire crag. Note: (This is also a way to reach the Higher Wire crag if one wished to do so). After traversing right for about the length of the Left Wire crag (50 yards?), you will see these two little devils on the wall to your left.
They are set on perfect stone and have decorative features. The route on the left of the wall is call: "Calculation 45" 5.13b. Climb up a short right arching seam under a small roof. Crank up to slopers, crimps and side pulls to gain the third bolt. A stiff finish is expected since the route never lets up. 3 bolts, LOs.
The route on the right is called: "Formula 45" 5.12d/13a. Climb in the small dihedral and stem up to a horizontal seam. Push ahead past a blank looking section to another horizontal. Don't bother to rest, just clip and fire up the impossible slopers and poor side pulls to the LOs. 3 bolts, LOs.
If you're at the Left Wire Crag and want some short, stiff climbing, then the 90 Second Wall is for you. Good luck to all those who dare and make sure you bring your best rope handler along with you. Slam it.
Weather Averages
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