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CA's slate just prior to the send of 8mm.
Climb up a shallow corner on small (small) holds. The rock climbing here is technical and fragile. Pull the lip to a sheet of ice no more than 1/2" thick and about 20 feet long. The ice does take a stubby just under the roof but then again there are anchors at that point.
The route is 15' left of Tourette's (the 3 bolt slab route) and Dragon's Teeth which are all left of Spiral Staircase, on the same band of rock as Spiral Staircase.
4 bolts with a 2 bolt anchor.
|By Matt Juth|
Feb 8, 2005
Great route. A lot better than Tourette's. The ice is thicker now than during the FA. You can get a stubby in lower, making it useful...
|By Rob Griz|
Mar 14, 2011
Careful of the rusting bolts and top anchors with weathered red webbing. They appear to be 1/4" bolts? A retro-bolting may be in order with the permission of the FA team. A great line that keep you reaching.