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84.1% Eclipse of the Heart (The Eclipse Route) S 
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84.1% Eclipse of the Heart (The Eclipse Route) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Randall Chapman
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring-Fall
Page Views: 498
Submitted By: Rschap on May 27, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: The route goes right of the tree the rope is runni...

Description 

84.1% Eclipse of the Heart (The Eclipse Route) is shorter with only 5 bolts. I was going to take it higher, but the rock quality degrades above the anchor. The crux is at the 3rd bolt where you can either move left of the bolt or right, moving right is easier but more exposed. Stay right after the last bolt to avoid loose rock. The 2012 solar eclipse happened as I hand drilled the anchor after my battery went dead, hence the name. Watch out for cactus near the third bolt.


Location 

The route starts 15 feet left of First First.


Protection 

5 quickdraws.



Photos of 84.1% Eclipse of the Heart (The Eclipse Route) Slideshow Add Photo
Nick clipping the first bolt on 84.1% Eclipse of the Heart.
Nick clipping the first bolt on 84.1% Eclipse of t...
Nick on the start moves of 84.1% Eclipse of the Heart.
Nick on the start moves of 84.1% Eclipse of the He...
Nick going left instead of right on the crux on 84.1% Eclipse of the Heart. Either way works.
Nick going left instead of right on the crux on 84...
Sarah clipping the first bolt on 84.1% Eclipse of the Heart.
Sarah clipping the first bolt on 84.1% Eclipse of ...
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