Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
L to R R to L Alpha
The large cliff band about 25 minute walk uphill from the Bolton Quarry (see map). This cliff is home to some of the hardest, most bad-ass sport climbing in the state of Vermont. The 82 crag has many climbs in the 5.11 to 5.12+ range. I would say it has some of the best 5.11's and 5.12's I have ever been on such as Arms Reduction (11b/c), Afro-Samurai (11d), the Doggfather (12b), Solarium (12b), Encryption (12c/d), Little Red Hen (12d). This crag has it all and the views are fantastic. A nice breeze tends to keep the 82 Crag a little cooler than others in the summer. It's about a 25 minute walk mostly uphill only if you don't get lost on the trails (otherwise could be quite a long hike). Try to check in here or with locals before you go to get some idea of where you are going.
Park in the Bolton Quarry Parking lot and follow the red line trail on the map provided (hopefully this will help). There is a specific network of trails/logging roads that must be followed and I suggest using a GPS device your first time so you don't get too lost. For the upper part of the crag (i.e. Doggfather, Little Red Hen, Afro Samurai, Encryption) you must climb up a 5.4 choss pile with a fixed rope for about 30 feet to get to the base of it.
19 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in 82 Crag
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for 82 Crag:
Crimp Chimp 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Block Party 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 150'
The Politics of Dancing 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 160'
War on Drugs 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 140'
Truffle Hog 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 160'
Year of the Dog 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Kid Charlemagne 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Arms Reduction 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport, 60'
The Doggfather 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Little Red Hen 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Featured Route For 82 Crag
The Politics of Dancing 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag
Said by those who have climbed it to be the "Prince of Darkness" of the East. This route epitomizes sustained face climbing with killer exposure to boot. Politics has a common start with "Crimp Chimp", then breaks hard left at the overlap/ledge until you are in front of the small birch tree. Take a deep breath, and make a quasi-committing move up to the first bolt. A fall from before clipping the first bolt would be less than ideal, so if one chooses, a yellow Alien can be placed from a comf...[more] Browse More Classics in VT
Latest Regional Forum Messages
From Eastern States Go to Forum | What's New | Post New Topic