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82 Crag

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82 Main Wall 
82 Steep Wall 
October Wall 

82 Crag Rock Climbing 

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Location: 44.37808, -72.86009 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 14,760
Administrators: Luc, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Colin R on Apr 17, 2010  with updates from KrisFiore
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  • Description 

    The large cliff band about 25 minute walk uphill from the Bolton Quarry (see map). This cliff is home to some of the hardest, most bad-ass sport climbing in the state of Vermont. The 82 crag has many climbs in the 5.11 to 5.12+ range. I would say it has some of the best 5.11's and 5.12's I have ever been on such as Arms Reduction (11b/c), Afro-Samurai (11d), the Doggfather (12b), Solarium (12b), Encryption (12c/d), Little Red Hen (12d). This crag has it all and the views are fantastic. A nice breeze tends to keep the 82 Crag a little cooler than others in the summer. It's about a 25 minute walk mostly uphill only if you don't get lost on the trails (otherwise could be quite a long hike). Try to check in here or with locals before you go to get some idea of where you are going.

    Getting There 

    Park in the Bolton Quarry Parking lot and follow the WHITE line trail on the map provided (hopefully this will help). The red trail crosses private property.
    There is a specific network of trails/logging roads that must be followed and I suggest using a GPS device your first time so you don't get too lost. For the upper part of the crag (i.e. Doggfather, Little Red Hen, Afro Samurai, Encryption) you must climb up a 5.4 choss pile with a fixed rope for about 30 feet to get to the base of it.

    You can also follow the directions listed in Tough Schist.

    Climbing Season

    Weather station 7.2 miles from here

    24 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in 82 Crag

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for 82 Crag:
    Crimp Chimp   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 160'   82 Main Wall
    Block Party   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   82 Main Wall
    The Politics of Dancing   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 160'   82 Main Wall
    War on Drugs   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   82 Main Wall
    Truffle Hog   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   82 Main Wall
    Year of the Dog   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   82 Main Wall
    Kid Charlemagne   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   82 Main Wall
    Arms Reduction   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 60'   82 Main Wall
    Afro Samurai   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   82 Steep Wall
    The Doggfather   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   82 Steep Wall
    Little Red Hen   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   82 Steep Wall
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in 82 Crag

    Featured Route For 82 Crag
    Rock Climbing Photo: Aaron Fournier slaps the final rail on The Doggfat...

    The Doggfather 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  VT : Bolton Area : ... : 82 Steep Wall
    This route is a true classic and is a must-do for any visiting climber capable of the grade. Begin with a long, pumpy, sequential 5.11+ face climbing section to a sloping rail where there is an awkward no-hands rest using your shoulder blade and smeared feet, use it well. Once you get uncomfortable in the no-hands "rest", best to move on to the crux which is a long V5 boulder problem through a bulge. There is a challenging clip right at the crux section. The final move involves a dyno off a smal...[more]   Browse More Classics in VT

    Comments on 82 Crag Add Comment
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    By Matt McCormick
    Apr 11, 2012
    For the grades at 82 I would suggest (Crusty By Nature .11a, Beyond .12b, Doggfather .12b, Red Hen .12c, Encryption .12d, Team America .12d) I'd say all of these grades are pretty solid. Encryption feels harder to me than Venus in Rumney which SOLID in the .12c grade and Team America felt about as hard and took more tries though I used a bit different beta than others. Red Hen has harder individual moves but has a huge rest on it. I think these grades would hold up at any crag. I'd be curious to see what Travis puts in the new book...
    By Colin R
    From: Ottawa, ON
    Apr 30, 2012
    I have upgraded Encryption to 12d and will take your word for it there however I am keeping Little Red Hen 12d unless I hear a lot more feedback to the contrary which so far I haven't. I feel "Who's Your Daddy" is the benchmark 12c for the area and LRH feels a notch harder to me. I am still mixed on Beyond because it was harder for me to redpoint than the Doggfather which is considered the benchmark 12b for the area - but I could wrong as I tend to be more power than endurance oriented (hence b/c grade). I also feel Arms Reduction should be upgraded - seems like a stretch to call it 11b but I am waiting for more suggestions there. Those are my two cents and with more feedback from people I'll change the grades to match what most people suggest regardless of what I think - please add yours
    By Colin R
    From: Ottawa, ON
    Apr 30, 2012
    Also worth mentioning that Alan Blade broke a hole on LRH recently (see his comment on the route) which seems noteworthy in terms of its difficulty - I have not been on it since then but I suspect it makes the reachy sidepull move down low harder.
    By Colin R
    From: Ottawa, ON
    Mar 10, 2013
    Interesting side story regarding grades at Bolton - Back in 2011 I was at the 82 Crag one day with Alan Blade and a climber I won't name that I knew from Boston was there who climbs a bunch at Rumney. He explained to me that he had read about The Doggfather online (presumably here) and was used to onsighting 12's at Rumney. I asked him if he wanted any beta and he quickly assured me he wouldn't need any. I then proceeded to watch him take about 6 whippers off the end of the techie 5.11+ section just before you get to the no-hands rest (i.e. well before the route crux at the end). This is a tricky section and can feel hard if you don't know what you are doing. When he finally asked me for my beta there he didn't seem to be able to make any use of it and looked at me incredulously as if I was making stuff up. After watching him fall several times I left the scene but with a bit of a sense that indeed Bolton is not Rumney so beware that you will likely be climbing a letter grade or more lower. I bet he probably did send it eventually later on but still interesting to watch....

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