||Trad, Sport, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 85'
|Consensus: ||WI5- M6+ [details]|
|FA: ||Rob Griz, John Parsons, Brandon Groza|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||882|
|Submitted By: ||Rob Griz on Apr 11, 2011|
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This is a fun new way to reach the wall ice behind The Fang
. This route lies directly between 7th Chakra
to the left and Seventh Tentacle
to the right. Follow the 3 bolts up into the overhanging daggers and pull the curtain onto steep ice. Continue up the center/left edge to new chain anchors that hang from the roof above. This is an excellent route with positive holds and possible chimney moves on the free-hangers. Good thing is, you don't need the extra 5 balls to do the route.
3 bolts and a handful of medium screws. There are chain anchors above in the roof.
2015 NOTE: the 3rd bolt has been somewhat compromised by a section of rock that fell out. It will soon be replaced in "better" stone.
BETA PHOTO: 7th Testicle, moving to the 3rd bolt.
From: Vail, CO
Jan 9, 2015
rating: WI5- M6+
I think this variation is way better than the original start. More direct. You usually get a chimney rest between the dagger and wall, and who doesn't love pulling onto hangers?