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 ADVANCED
Reef Rock on Mica Mt.
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
(2) Short Story T 
(1) J- Cubed T 
(3) Mystery Route T 
(4) Supergoat and the Singing Sardines T 
(5) Cryptic Friction T 
(5a) MC Runner T 
(6) Bombs Away T 
(7) Fiona's Feelin' Groovy T 

(7) Fiona's Feelin' Groovy 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 570'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: J.N., J.D., J.Mw., 6/08
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 827
Submitted By: JMayhew on Sep 19, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: The first 30' before the left traverse on P1 is no...

Description 

1. Climb crack under pointy block, traverse left to chimney and belay about 10 ft. below end of chimney on small stance. If rope drag is too bad, belay lower. (5.7 130 ft.)
2. Diagonal right to bulge move at left end of narrow ledge. Left and up to fun stemming scoop that can be avoided on right. Clip bolt then diagonal up and left to chimney. Belay at tree on ledge. [Take note of the 2 bolt rap station further left on the other side of a large boulder. That is the top of pitch 3 of “Bombs Away” and also the rap route.] (5.7+ 120 ft.)
3. Fun chimney (if you like chimneys!) to 2 bolts at a ledge. (5.7 140 ft.)
4. Finish chimney then straight up thru cracks and bulges to top. (5.6 130 ft.) [At top of chimney you can also step right to 2 bolt belay/rap station at top of “Bombs Away.”]



Descent: If you’ve gone to the very top, hike back down to huge ledge that you passed with 2 bolts. (Rap “Bombs Away”): 1) Rap to 2 bolts at top of pitch 3 of “FFG”. 2) Rap to 2 bolts next to large block about 30 feet left of tree belay at top of pitch 2 of “FFG”. 3) Rap 180 feet to large trees at top of first chimney pitch on “Bombs Away.” 4) Rap 50 feet off tree to ground.

Location 

On the far right end of the wall, just before turning the corner and heading up to a shorter orange section of cliff is a low-angle series of weaknesses. Start at a huge madrone tree about 50 right of a chimney. A crack leads past a pointy block. You can 3rd class in from the right to get on top of this block but the crack is fun.

Protection 

"Standard" with doubles of cams to #3, and a #4. A #5 camalot was used but probably not necessary. Smaller tri-cams are handy.


Photos of (7) Fiona's Feelin' Groovy Slideshow Add Photo
The long chimney on P3.
The long chimney on P3.

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