Start just left of a scrawny-looking oak, up a prominent, discontinuous deep gash. Good quality, dark rock that protects well. Awkward climbing - the trick is not to get sucked in too deep. Head up towards the slot, up and left a to 2-bolt anchor (new chains with rings added 9/04). One stripped bolt was replaced with one stainless steel Fixe 12mm bolt at that time.
OK we all call it 5.6 because that's what we read in the guide book. True, most of the route is easy 5 but we all know squezing out of the chimney and moving out onto the face is way harder than 5.6 especially if you are leading it. Compared to Yosemite routes like After 6, Munginella or The Great White Book it is harder. The 5.6 is a sand bag in my opinion. If you are going to lead it take my 5.8- rating up with you... you'll be glad you did.
This climb was originally called "Dead Rats Crack". That name got transmogrified into "Dirty Rats Crack" and somehow landed on the ramp about 50' to the right. Anyway, 60 Seconds was originally called Dead Rats Crack. Here's the description from one of the first ascentionists, Richard Pfost:
While attending Cuesta College during the spring of 1971, John Mitchell, Romeo Betita, and myself, traveled to Yosemite Valley and took climbing lessons for Spring Break. After a week of adventure, we were excited to find some hard rock in central California. The only problem is that we had to wait several weeks before going down to Ventura to Chouniard Equipment to get some gear. After spending what little money I had on a new rope, a few binears, Robbins boots, some pins and a hammer, we started tresspassing on every property that had any vertical face. Early in April 1971, after class, we ended up on Bishop's Peak. Walked up and liked the look of the crack system, geared up, set the bottom belay and started up. Other than the oder of throwing out the "dead rat" from an area of a perfect hand jam, it was a great climb for the three novices. We did it a number of times, including learning to go from pins to chokes. We ran into Rusty Garing and his dad Bob several times up on the side of Bishop's Peak. We became long-time friends.
This was my second trad lead ever and it was in my opinion slightly higher than a 5.6 even when I climbed it later on top rope. Very fun but in my opinion 5.6 is a sand bag grade. Takes pro very well for most of the route.
By Brian Prince From: morro bay, ca Oct 4, 2010 rating: 5.64c14V12S 4b
Really fun! It is part pulling on jugs, part jamming and part chimneying/stemming on some really cool rock. Maybe take a couple extra bigger cams for the top half.
By Joseph Stover From: Batesville, AR Feb 25, 2011 rating: 5.75a15V+13MVS 4b
Overall a STELLER route that is easy to overprotect. You could probably place a complete double set of BD C4's (0.3 to 3) and one or more of C4#4-6 if you like. Definitely harder than 5.6 if you use little to no crack technique. I didn't see any place where jams would have been overly useful and efficient, as most holds were juggy and positive, but I'm not a crack climber.
Some of the dark rock was a bit grimy, but the humidity and cold of the day and recent rains may have contributed to that. Definitely will climb again and again!