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The Good Book Rock Climbing
Routes in 6. The Good Book
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Adrian's Crack with Bush T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Apathy Killed the American Dream TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Atman / Brahman ? TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cam's Cool Chimney T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Cap'n Ahab T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Contortionist, The S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Corduroy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Crow's Nest Egg TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Death of the Magician, The TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Gettin' Biblical TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gift of the Kneebar TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Good Book Top-Bottom Access T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Harpoon Me T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hit The Deckah T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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I Am Time T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Jesus Made Waffles TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Jesus Made Waffles Redirect (AKA Jesus Made Belgium Waffles) TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
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Kafka on the Shore T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Krassy T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Last Supper, The TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Lumberjack Fantasy T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Meryl's Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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My Climb is Ishmael T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Nephalim, The S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Prince Arjuna T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rachel S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ramapo Torn (aka The Ripper) T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Rebecca S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Scurvy the Ship Dog T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sins of the Father, The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sins of the Son, The S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Squish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Up the Slot T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Whalehunter T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wine Into Syrup TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X |
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WWJD T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
Order Wrong?
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| Elevation: | 670 ft | 204 m |
| GPS: |
41.14596, -74.16582 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 51,866 total · 370/month | |
| Shared By: | kenr on Jun 12, 2013 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, SMarsh |
Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance.
Details
The current parking area is now limited parking, subject to the following guidelines:
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
Description
The Good Book sector is one of the taller walls at Powerlinez with great rock, great moves. It has the only sport-climbing routes at Powerlinez.
Faces mainly SSW, so warm on winter afternoons, cool on summer mornings. Good drainage below, so typically less insects than certain other sectors.
top-roping: A long static line is needed to set up a top-rope on many of the routes, because the trees above the top of the wall are set back a ways from the top edge of the cliff.
One way to reach the top of the wall (especially the left half) to climb the Top-Bottom Access route, a bit left from the big alcove / cave /chimney at left center of this sector (4th class or 3rd class). Another (longer) way is to go to the Top Shelf sector and continue up right. Trying to scramble up around the right end likely requires first hiking way out around right - (see the instructions for sector Fairy Tales).
bolts: The bolts and hangers which are on five routes in The Good Book sector are composed of zinc-plated steel (sometimes known as "galvanized" steel) and were installed around 2010. They have not been approved (or disapproved) by the Torne Valley Climbers Coalition, and are not inspected or maintained by the TVCC or by Harriman State Park. There is concern that Powerlinez might be in high-corrosion region for steel: with acid rain from the west, and salt water 40 miles to south and east. Zinc-plated steel provides better corrosion-resistance than "plain carbon" steel, but there are other materials which are used nowadays for outdoor sport climbing which have much better corrosion-resistance. Each of those five routes could also be climbed by Top-Roping with the protection of a traditional anchor from above the cliff (such as a static line from a large tree). Whether to trust, or how to use, those bolts is a decision which each climbing party is responsible to make for themselves.
These bolts are a holdover from before when the area was legally opened in 2013. No new bolting is permitted (more info on the Powerlinez main area page and its Comments).
Faces mainly SSW, so warm on winter afternoons, cool on summer mornings. Good drainage below, so typically less insects than certain other sectors.
top-roping: A long static line is needed to set up a top-rope on many of the routes, because the trees above the top of the wall are set back a ways from the top edge of the cliff.
One way to reach the top of the wall (especially the left half) to climb the Top-Bottom Access route, a bit left from the big alcove / cave /chimney at left center of this sector (4th class or 3rd class). Another (longer) way is to go to the Top Shelf sector and continue up right. Trying to scramble up around the right end likely requires first hiking way out around right - (see the instructions for sector Fairy Tales).
bolts: The bolts and hangers which are on five routes in The Good Book sector are composed of zinc-plated steel (sometimes known as "galvanized" steel) and were installed around 2010. They have not been approved (or disapproved) by the Torne Valley Climbers Coalition, and are not inspected or maintained by the TVCC or by Harriman State Park. There is concern that Powerlinez might be in high-corrosion region for steel: with acid rain from the west, and salt water 40 miles to south and east. Zinc-plated steel provides better corrosion-resistance than "plain carbon" steel, but there are other materials which are used nowadays for outdoor sport climbing which have much better corrosion-resistance. Each of those five routes could also be climbed by Top-Roping with the protection of a traditional anchor from above the cliff (such as a static line from a large tree). Whether to trust, or how to use, those bolts is a decision which each climbing party is responsible to make for themselves.
These bolts are a holdover from before when the area was legally opened in 2013. No new bolting is permitted (more info on the Powerlinez main area page and its Comments).
Getting There
From the main Powerlinez trailhead on Torne Brook Rd (GPS latitude longitude approx N41.1423 W74.1623), walk North on dirt road gentle uphill for 0.2 mile to an intersection. Turn sharp Left on dirt road and go SouthWest about 0.1 mile to another intersection. Take the Right fork onto dirt road steep uphill and go about 0.2 mile NW then W then NW (soon gets gentler and turns into a hiking trail).
Next at (N41.1447 W74.1674) turn Right onto another trail whose start has logs along its sides, and go NE about 0.75 mile (soon with short rock scramble up through small cliff band, then gentle downhill and flat) to reach a cross junction (N41.1452 W74.1667) with another trail (the Tower Wall tier trail) which goes along the base of a boulder face just right of junction.
. . (This junction could also be reached by first going to the Tower Wall, then walking flat 400 feet W along the base of the cliffs).
Continue straight across this junction onto The Good Book access trail and go 0.13 mile on this ... at first up steep rocky slope NE about 100 feet, and after the top of that steep section continue on the trail ENE gentle about 330 feet. Then the trail curves Left and goes uphill WNW about 150 feet to reach The Good Book.
Next at (N41.1447 W74.1674) turn Right onto another trail whose start has logs along its sides, and go NE about 0.75 mile (soon with short rock scramble up through small cliff band, then gentle downhill and flat) to reach a cross junction (N41.1452 W74.1667) with another trail (the Tower Wall tier trail) which goes along the base of a boulder face just right of junction.
. . (This junction could also be reached by first going to the Tower Wall, then walking flat 400 feet W along the base of the cliffs).
Continue straight across this junction onto The Good Book access trail and go 0.13 mile on this ... at first up steep rocky slope NE about 100 feet, and after the top of that steep section continue on the trail ENE gentle about 330 feet. Then the trail curves Left and goes uphill WNW about 150 feet to reach The Good Book.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Good Book
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Sun Angles Details:
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Photos
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