(6) Bombs Away  5.8

465 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 530 feet Consensus:  5.8 [details] FA:  Asher Sussman, M.M., J.Do., J.Mw., 7/08 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  JMayhew on Sep 19, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Joe deciphers the tricky exit move on P1.

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

1. Climb chimney 50 feet to an awkward exit move around a block. Belay off any of a number of big trees that you will also use as the last rap station. (5.7 50 ft.)
2. Straight above you’ll see a square roof. The next belay is on the ledge just right. Diagonal right past a sloping ledge to gain crack at small bulge. Follow this crack up to the right side of a small ledge. A fixed pin at the left end of the ledge can be backed up with small stoppers and a sling thru a tunnel. (5.8 110 ft.) [a 5.8 var. climbs face and cracks between this line and the main chimney.]
3. Stem and layback to the end of the crack where you can step right onto a ledge with a boulder and 2 bolts. (5.8 100 ft.)
4. Head right, crossing “FFG,” to a curving flake. Exit right when rock gets steep and gritty to short cracks that lead up past small tree. Look for a left diagonalling ramp that heads toward the long chimney and belay at 2 bolts just shy of the chimney (same as p. 3 belay of “FFG”). (5.7 150 ft.)
5. Diagonal up and right thru small cracks to huge ledge with 2 bolts. (5.6+ 120 ft.)

Descent: IF you have 60 M ropes, rap the route, skipping the pin belay at the top of pitch 2.
IF you have 50 M ropes, you’ll have to rig up a rap at the pin belay or on pitch #2 somewhere.
It is possible to walk off way right along ledges and down thru brushy gullies to the base of the climb.

Location 

On the far right end of the wall , just before turning a corner and heading up to a shorter orange section of cliff is a low-angle series of weaknesses. Start 50 feet left of a huge madrone tree, (which marks the start of “FFG,”) in a short chimney with a deep sloping floor.

Protection 

"Standard" with doubles of cams to #3, and a #4. A #5 camalot was used but probably not necessary. Smaller tri-cams are handy.