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5mm cord, Is it safe for anchor setups?
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Jun 4, 2011
Obi Wan Ryobi - Darth Vader Crag, Rumney NH
Although lighter and smaller, is it REALLY worth changing? Not to mention since it incorporates dyneema/other synthetics, it does not stretch like nylon. Its similar to building an anchor out of a dynex sling; doable, but not suggested because its relatively static. Brendan Blanchard
From Boulder, CO
Joined Oct 18, 2010
310 points
Jun 4, 2011
Silverton
DannyUncanny wrote:
Assuming that you somehow built an anchor which put all of the weight on a single unknotted strand. Most people double the load rating and subtract a bit for knots when using material for anchors because you should always have at least two strands taking whatever the load is.


+1 If you have three pieces of gear you end up with 6 strands. If I'm thinking right that should be 6X the strength of a single strand. I use 6ml and find it perfect.
Ty Harlacker
From Albuquerque, NM
Joined Mar 2, 2008
211 points
Jun 4, 2011
Me at the belay on bear creek spire
Dan Hall wrote:
With one notable exception. The quad setup tied with 5mm tech cord is a great setup for bolted anchors.

Agree.
Brian Snider
From NorCal
Joined Mar 24, 2010
769 points
Jun 4, 2011
Brian Snider wrote:
Agree.


you mean instead of two draws or the super-8? doubt it.
John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
2,395 points
Jun 4, 2011
Ty Harlacker wrote:
+1 That's the working strength as well; breaking is probably double that.


-1. Spec strength for cord is MBS, _NOT_ SWL. Kindly refrain from spreading this incorrect information further.
Aric Datesman
Joined Sep 16, 2008
145 points
Jun 5, 2011
Silverton
Aric Datesman wrote:
-1. Spec strength for cord is MBS, _NOT_ SWL. Kindly refrain from spreading this incorrect information further.

Thanks for letting me know, I appreciate it.
Ty Harlacker
From Albuquerque, NM
Joined Mar 2, 2008
211 points
Jun 5, 2011
Me at the belay on bear creek spire
John Wilder wrote:
you mean instead of two draws or the super-8? doubt it.

Self equalizing, redundant, bombproof, already tied and ready to go.
Brian Snider
From NorCal
Joined Mar 24, 2010
769 points
Jun 5, 2011
Doing the jump-across off The Mace.  I never get t...
With proper configuration & normal situations it is probably fine. However when rigging that type of anchor I use & would recommend 7 mil cord to be sure.

For multipitch with bolted belays I prefer using the rope.
Mike
From Phoenix
Joined May 16, 2006
2,776 points
Jun 5, 2011
Brian Snider wrote:
Self equalizing, redundant, bombproof, already tied and ready to go.


well- everything but the pre-tied i'll agree with, but two draws takes two seconds to clip, and if you're multi-pitching, the rope is right there and the super-8 takes seconds to set up and you dont have to deal with the extra bulk of a cordlette.

i see no reason to ever use a cord based anchor on two bolts- thats a waste of time and effort, imho.

(note: sure, you can pre-tie, but that will only work for a certain percentage of bolted anchors- the rest of them you're going to have to dick around while I will have either clipped my draws and lowered or be belaying my partner off the super-8.)
John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
2,395 points
Jun 5, 2011
Bolted anchors a double length dynema sling tied to a master point is how I roll. for trad anchors a 15 foot peice of webbing to you guest it a master point has kept me feeling just fine. Maybe I am stupid or reckless but I have never felt unsafe with these set ups. And that's for single or multiple pitch. martinharris
From Glenwood Springs CO
Joined Jul 20, 2010
231 points
Oct 27, 2012
Cool climb
is this set up safe with the 5mm?
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Johnny Ink
From Portland
Joined Aug 20, 2011
250 points
Oct 27, 2012
Cool climb
using the rope as anchors only works if you're switching leads right? i'm planning to do some multipitch but will be leader most of the time. Johnny Ink
From Portland
Joined Aug 20, 2011
250 points
Oct 27, 2012
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.
Johnny Ink wrote:
is this set up safe with the 5mm?


if you've tripled it what's the point? My rabbit runner is way smaller than that.
NickinCO
From colorado
Joined Sep 17, 2010
239 points
Oct 27, 2012
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.
I've been using these

bentgate.com/raru4ftbyya.html

in 10' and 12' lengths and they're great. Strong, fast, and small, could do the same thing with a piece of cord though.
NickinCO
From colorado
Joined Sep 17, 2010
239 points
Oct 27, 2012
Johnny Ink wrote:
using the rope as anchors only works if you're switching leads right?



Wrong. You might want to practice this (basic) technique before taking your friends out.
Reginald McChufferton
Joined Sep 24, 2012
1 points
Oct 27, 2012
Aric Datesman wrote:
Do you build anchors with single strands of cord, Matt? If not, you might want to rethink those numbers. That's not to say I don't agree with you, just that you've forgotten to take into account that the arms of the anchor are typically loops.


pretty sure just because there is a single loop on the leg doesnt make the tension on the rope any different (unless you made each side independent with a clove hitch or something). little experiment you may want to try with fishing line: 10 lbs test + 15 lbs weight. Tie the line directly to the weight and slowly lift (SNAP). Make a single loop around the weight and lift (SNAP). Im no expert but...pretty sure a single loop doesnt increase the strength at all.
H..
From Washingtonville NY
Joined Apr 9, 2012
50 points
Oct 27, 2012
The Beginning of Mr. Clean (5.8) at the Barkeater ...
Brendan Blanchard wrote:
Not to mention since it incorporates dyneema/other synthetics, it does not stretch like nylon. Its similar to building an anchor out of a dynex sling; doable, but not suggested because its relatively static.


For everyone suggesting you not build multipitch anchors with static materials, what are you leading on, steel cable? It's perfectly fine to build anchors with dyneema. Your body, the rope, the movement of the belayer, and movement of the rope thru the belay device all absorb forces in a fall.

As for 5 mil cord I'd be wary. It will wear out faster, cut easier, and the margin of safety is far less than with burlier cord. The cost difference and minimal weight difference just aren't enough to make it worth it in my opinion. Spend the $10 bucks and get some new cord. You and your partners will feel better.
jmeizis
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Jul 30, 2008
305 points
Oct 27, 2012
Slab...
Johnny Ink wrote:
is this set up safe with the 5mm?

In a pinch Id use it.... It wouldnt be my first choice however. Its strong, but thinner with abrasion fails much easier too... doubled and fig 8, its pretty much bomber...
Rockbanned
From Plattsburgh, Ny
Joined Dec 18, 2011
221 points
Oct 27, 2012
Holy Lazarus thread Batman. Get some 8mm cord already. Or go for the 7mm if you are "Fast and Light" like the cool kids. You could probably shave that wieght by taking a nice crap before sending.

No, 5mm cord is not safe. Will it definitely fail? Who want to be the first to find out?

John Husky
Joined May 10, 2011
3 points
Oct 27, 2012
Colonel Mustard
If the weight of your anchor cord is holding you back, you may want to consider you suck at climbing. Colonel Mustard
Joined Sep 13, 2005
1,382 points
Oct 28, 2012
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stile...
Johnny Ink wrote:
is this set up safe with the 5mm?


Did you read the rest of the thread? You should concentrate on the parts where no one thinks it's a good idea to use 5mm Perlon for cordalettes. When I used to use one, I used 5.5 Spectra because it's much smaller that Perlon cordalettes; I wasn't concerned about weight as some have suggested. But I haven't used or needed a cordalette in many years.

John Husky wrote:
Get some 8mm cord already.


Or just got to Cheapo Depot and get some chain. Don't they make twins out of 8.Xmm nylon?
Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Joined May 10, 2007
280 points
Oct 28, 2012
Cool climb
cool. thanks guys. Johnny Ink
From Portland
Joined Aug 20, 2011
250 points
Oct 28, 2012
J-Tree
Personally I like 11 mm anchor chain for strength and durability, gold plated is best for corrosion resistance!

anchor chain
anchor chain


More seriously, do people like Mammut pro cord?
outdoorgearlab.com/Climbing-Sl...
I climbed with someone who uses this and it seems like a great option.
David Houston
From Boulder, Colorado
Joined Nov 18, 2001
184 points
Oct 28, 2012
tanuki
the link below has a bunch of great info regarding the strength of a loop vs the strength of a single strand. In short, a single strand of 7MM has a tensile strength of ~3Km while a loop has a tensile strength of ~5K. That is an increase of about 65%. Not all materials behave this way, but nylon cord and webbing does.

user.xmission.com/~tmoyer/test...
NC Rock Climber
From The Oven, AKA Phoenix
Joined Dec 6, 2009
121 points
Oct 28, 2012
Or just got to Cheapo Depot and get some chain. Don't they make twins out of 8.Xmm nylon?

Yes, indeed. 8mm perlon accessory cord is virtually identical to twins and doubles. ( I have used ice floss twins at 7.9mm).

They are as heavy as chains.
John Husky
Joined May 10, 2011
3 points


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