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 ADVANCED
Lookout Mountain Crag
Select Route:
5.10 Crack aka "Thin Fingers" T,TR 
5.10a Face S 
5.7 Arete TR 
5.7 Dihedral T,TR 
5.7 Face TR 
5.8 Crack T,TR 
5.9 Crack aka "Into the Void" T,TR 
5.9 Face S 
Changing Corners TR 
Shake 'N' Bake T,S 

5.9 Face 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,215
Submitted By: Darrin Stein on Aug 6, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (50)
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Looking down from the anchor.

Description 

Once your at the base of the crag, this is the sport line on the right side. The first bolt is a bit high, but the climbing is only about 5.6 to get to it. Nice line that progressivly gets harder as you move up. The crux comes at the small roof and if your feeling a bit bold, you can move through it towards the left, or take the easier way on the the right. Solid holds all the way to the anchors.

Protection 

Three bolts and a two bolt anchor.


Photos of 5.9 Face Slideshow Add Photo
Ken McVicker further up
Ken McVicker further up
The 5.9 face route (sport).
BETA PHOTO: The 5.9 face route (sport).
Peter Dillon on thin edges below the roof.
Peter Dillon on thin edges below the roof.
Rob Mullen working the crimps before the roof
Rob Mullen working the crimps before the roof
Looks like a fun lead. First bolt is a little high...
Looks like a fun lead. First bolt is a little high...
BETA PHOTO
Ken McVicker on this route
Ken McVicker on this route
Rob Mullen pulling the roof.
Rob Mullen pulling the roof.
A fun little crossover while leading about 2/3 of ...
A fun little crossover while leading about 2/3 of ...
Irina Overeem climbing the thin face at the second...
Irina Overeem climbing the thin face at the second...
Unknown man works it thin.
Unknown man works it thin.
Irina Overeem nearing the roof.
Irina Overeem nearing the roof.
A bald Rob, 5-9-12.
A bald Rob, 5-9-12.
Peter Dillon at the first bolt, far off the deck.
Peter Dillon at the first bolt, far off the deck.
The anchor bolts.
The anchor bolts.

Comments on 5.9 Face Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 29, 2012
By Joe Keyser
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Feb 13, 2002

Don't fall before that first bolt, it is a ways up. I thought the moves getting to it aren't too bad, but require some careful thought.. After that, it's a cruiser.
By T.J. Satriano
Feb 14, 2002

If you actually look on the lower face, about 4 feet up from that little scoop type feature, there is a chopped bolt. All that is left is the metal of the actual expansion bolt, but it's there... Hopefully we can get it replaced to avoid the danger of that first runout... because it appears (at least to me) that this runout was not the FA's style of creating the route.

If you have any doubt that you can't make the first few moves, then just toprope the route... the anchors are somewhat easy to access to set up a TR... although it's a little exposed.
By Drew Kurry
Oct 13, 2002

Great route to practice slab climbing. Concentrate on feet as there are plenty of little places when you need them.

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 7, 2003
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

An excellent pitch of thin-edge face climbing. Big jugs at the roof, which is easier than the face below. Dicey moves getting up to the first bolt, which is way off the deck. Best bet: clip the first bolt on rappel before leading.

Excellent thin-edge face climbing.

A bolt should be added to this route at the start; the first bolt is way off the deck, with 5.7 climbing to get to it.
By Brian Tessier
From: Lakehood, Colorado
Aug 12, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Gear Alert
The chopped bolt at the start has been replaced. Enjoy!
By Jeremy Hakes
From: Golden, Colorado
Aug 10, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Hooray! Someone replaced the TR anchors! And 2 other bolts have been replaced on this line. The first bolt is a little bit up - seems the crux is at the beginning, except for the small roof. If you fall before clipping the second bolt (which is easier to clip than the first) you will deck.
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 28, 2006

[Ed. - a duplicate route was submitted as "5.9 Sport" by Steve Matthys on Sep 8, 2002 with the following description]:

Labled #2 in the beta photo this route is just left of the 5.6 crack. The first bolt has been chopped which makes the first move just that much more interesting.

Use the TR anchors or lead this on bolts. I believe there are 5 bolts on the route, but do not hold me to that. It's been a while since I have climbed it. Drape slings over the roof to avoid pulling the last moves, or just grow some balls and send the small roof.
By Casey Lems
From: Lakewood, CO
Aug 11, 2009

Bring a long draw for the clip above the roof. And make sure you clip the bolt biner with the spine on the rock. When my friend led this he managed to have both biners open due to the way they sat over the ledge on the rock.
By mountainhick
From: Black Hawk, CO
Sep 8, 2009

I don't agree with the original description of this route "5.6 to the first bolt". Not sure if the original "first bolt" placement is there or not, but it sure seemed harder than 5.6 to the current first bolt. Many variations for this face. Lots of footwork and high step practice. Fun exit move.
By Scott McMahon
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 2, 2012

Up to the first bolt is tricky. I must have kept starting wrong as I thought the climbing was easier after the first bolt. Cool rails and crips, with a fun sequence. Good rests and clipping stances, but it's pretty sustained for the short pitch.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Nov 29, 2012

The start of this route did feel harder than 5.6.