5.9 crack to left of The Baron
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Start in the chimney to the left of The Baron, look up and see it narrow to a fist sized crack about 25 feet up. Climb up in there. Climb up a huge, detached fang and think about your tiny little 90 lb. girlfriend in the cave fearlessly belaying you while you drop one in your pants. Climb up more looseness to an overhang and into an awesome (read solid), fist/layback crack. Follow it up onto the edge and onto the top of the pinnacle. Then, lower from the harrowing anchors that are wrapped around cow dung mounds on the top.
Bring ~12 feet of sling to replace the tat at the top if you go up there. That's the only reason for this too long route description.
Find The Baron, then next to the left is The Baroness (chimney with chockstone), then next to that is some other dirty 5.8 corner that goes to the top in ~250 feet, then the "5.9 crack to the left of The Baron".
These are all dirty cracks - but a nice intro to the area. The next day we went up to The Castle with a good idea what was happening to us.
I placed a #5 to protect the first 25 feet, then a few fingers and many hand/fist-size pieces.
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