5.8 sport route
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This route was put up without a permit by some visiting climbers. The hangers have been pulled from the bolts. You can protect it with stoppers hung from the bolts. A short traverse right from the anchor will get you to the anchors for "left out"
In lost creek canyon on the south wall. It starts on the large block 10' east of "left out"
Use stoppers hung from the bolts. Build a trad anchor. Have your second traverse right to anchor on "leftout"
|Comments on 5.8 sport route
Sep 30, 2009
So this gets a bomb becuase they didn't have permits to put the route up or becuase it's really just that bad?
Sep 13, 2011
There are no permits available to bolt in the canyons, so that's not part of the equation. There are newer bolted routes that have gone up and no one's batted an eye-what happened here is that a bunch of cheap stud bolts appeared all over a traditional crag, the routes suck and were placed close enough to the established cracks in some cases to be clipped/used as footholds at cruxes. It was ugly and stupid bolting and the routes were reccommended to be chopped by local guidebook authors several years ago. Doubtful they will be missed. There were at least three bolted pitches put up here, all terrible. The rest of the routes are great!
|By Chris D|
From: the couch
Feb 3, 2012
I was going to visit this area, but when I heard that this classic had been chopped, I wrote the to ASCA to see if they would fund replacement of the bolts, then vowed to never visit until the bolts were back. Word is this is the sleeper route in Red Rock...destined to be the next Levitation 29.
Feb 3, 2012
You will be missed. Sleeper's about 250 feet to the left, no bolts but decent climbing. Now get back to whacking off or whatever it is that you do that produces something useful.
And on the useful tip: This route has been chopped for real, now. Last time I did this one it still had a couple hangers in place and a ghetto anchor that you could use if you didn't know about the Left Out anchor. We saw no studs or hardware whatsoever yesterday, there's a few gear placements but all trace of this thing's existence are pretty much gone now. We climbed it on gear at 7+/8 R/X, not really worth the time, there are better face routes at Willow and better protected. No big loss-the other lines just right are way more worth it.