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5.8 Crag

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.8 Crack by the Road, The T 
Arm and Hammer S 
Asbury Park S 
Blue Spotted Tail TR 
Blueballs at Christmas T 
Bolt And Run S 
Central Park TR 
Chimney of Doom T 
Granny's Route S 
License to Ill T 
Milksnake T 
Milktoast S 
Moe Pup Sensation S 
Only a Crow S 
Pump Up the Volume S 
Raven S 
Romancing The Snake T 
Romancing the Stone S 
Sky Pilot T,S 
Snake Skin Slab S 
Terrace, The S 

5.8 Crag  


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Page Views: 36,040
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Patrick Bagley on Oct 23, 2006
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Description 

5.8 Crag is a somewhat shady crag at the base of Rattlesnake Mountain that is visible from the road. Due to its proximity to the road, 5.8 Crag is well traveled and popular with large groups of topropers. The Main Cliff and the upper crags are also easily reached via a "secret" (sshhh!) trail that ascends from the far right end of this crag, making 5.8 Crag a good choice for the cranksters who want to warm up en route to the "proj."

Those hoping 5.8 Crag will live up to its name will not be disappointed, however about half of climbs here range from 5.10 to 5.12. If approaching from the road, the first route you will see is Romancing The Stone (5.10c), which ascend to the right of a blunt arete before launching into a pumpy traverse and overhanging jug haul.

The gently overhanging wall to the right of Romancing The Stone is home to the wall's only 5.12 and a side-by-side set of 5.11s. For the most part the climbs become progressively less steep and easier as you move left of Romancing the Stone. Notable climbs here include a 5.7 hand crack that is protected with gear and two 5.8s that have one or two interesting moves.

Getting There 

Park at either lot (but never on the road!) and walk down the road with the Baker River on your left. After the road bends right, you will see an obvious trail on the right hand side of the road. At the mouth of this trail you should see an engraved wooden sign that says "5.8 Crag." Walk up the trail past this sign and viola, there you are.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.0 miles from here

21 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',3],['5.8',4],['5.9',2],['5.10',6],['5.11',4],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for 5.8 Crag:
The 5.8 Crack by the Road   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Moe Pup Sensation   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport   
Snake Skin Slab   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Bolt And Run   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Romancing the Stone   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Milktoast   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport   
License to Ill   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R     Trad, 1 pitch   
Arm and Hammer   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Sky Pilot   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch   
Blueballs at Christmas   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R     Trad, 1 pitch   
Pump Up the Volume   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Browse More Classics in 5.8 Crag

Featured Route For 5.8 Crag
Dan on the Crux

Only a Crow 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  NH : Rumney : 5.8 Crag
A one move wonder on the far right end of the crag up the hill from Arm and Hammer (5.11b). Start up easier rock to gain a stance, a few moves reach the crux (mostly crimps) to more moderate climbing. A few more tricky moves but for the most part the lower crux is the one to beat. Not the best route of the grade, but on a busy day it is worth doing. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of 5.8 Crag Slideshow Add Photo
A map of the right (harder) side of 5.8 Crag...
BETA PHOTO: A map of the right (harder) side of 5.8 Crag...
crackheadNH on a lower standing platform on the 5.8 Crack By The Road(actually 5.7) at Rumney
crackheadNH on a lower standing platform on the 5....
Jeff on the popular, Romancing the Stone 5.10c
Jeff on the popular, Romancing the Stone 5.10c
a map of the middle buttress of 5.8 crag...
BETA PHOTO: a map of the middle buttress of 5.8 crag...
i left out a couple linkups and obscurities but here is the meat of the cliff...
BETA PHOTO: i left out a couple linkups and obscurities but he...
5.8 crag left side
BETA PHOTO: 5.8 crag left side

Comments on 5.8 Crag Add Comment
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By Aaron L.
Jul 14, 2011
CONDITION REPORT 
There is a fairly large wasp nest about two thirds of the way up the chimney on the left side. Take care not to disturb it when climbing the chimney or the adjacent routes.