5.8 Crack 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8- [details] |
| FA: | unknown |
| Submitted By: | Casey Bernal on Feb 13, 2002 |
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Kevin Currigan; August 31, 2001. Photo ...
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Description This route is the obvious serrated crack on the right side of the face. Excellent jugs and jams lead to the steep crux (5.8). Short but fun climbing overall.
Protection Easy access to the cold shuts above the lip for a toprope. Also makes an excellent lead. Standard rack. ~45 feet
BETA PHOTO: The 5.8 crack (trad).
| Kara Chrysler cruising to the crux August 31, 2001...
| Andy Chrysler, August 31, 2001, Photo by his lovel...
| Photo by Ed Mullen. Mike at the start of the rout...
| Irina Overeem nearing the crux.
| Irina Overeem finishing the crux moves to the anch...
| David K. above the crux on 5.8 crack Lookout Mount...
| Trevor Mohlenkamp on toprope, Age 8, Mother's Day ...
| Nick on his first 5.6 TR and he flashed it!
| L. Smith and Brewery
| Dave Kenealy on 5.8 crack.
| Emily on 5.8 crack.
| Kristin Knudson pauses to plug in some gear as the...
| BETA PHOTO: A look at the route.
| The anchor.
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By Mike Mullen From: Littleton May 21, 2002
| This is a great trad lead. Microcams work well to protect the crux move. |
By Anonymous Coward Aug 28, 2002
| Great place to climb after work. We are just starting out, and the combination crack and face climbs from the toprope anchors are great. The whole slab is like a big playground... |
By Ron Olsen From: Boulder, CO Sep 7, 2003 rating: 5.8
| An excellent pitch of 5.6-5.7 crack climbing with a brief 5.8 crux at the top. A solid clean crack climb. Mostly 5.6 to 5.7, with a brief 5.8 crux at the top. |
By Justin Peacock From: Denver, co May 1, 2005
| My first-ever outside route many years ago... It's short and fun for a beginner. Pretty good first lead and aid practice, too. |
By Lee Smith Jul 9, 2006
| It appears to me that this route is the same as the 5.6 C1 route described above. I would go with a 5.6 rating if you turn the roof on the left side. 2 stars only because it is so short. If it were longer it would be a very popular route. |
By M.Morley Administrator From: Sacramento, CA Sep 28, 2006
| [Ed.- duplicate route was submitted as "5.6 Crack" by Steve Matthys on Sep 24, 2002 with the following description]: This route is the first route you will pass if you take the walk down to the base of the cliff. It is an obvious hand/finger crack that you can top rope or lead on trad. Great trad lead for beginners. Small to midsize cams & Stoppers. For TR, some webbing and locking biners. |
By percious From: Bear Creek, CO Nov 1, 2007 rating: 5.7
| This climb could be climbed all passive. |
By Phil Persson From: Denver, Colorado Oct 7, 2008
| Short, but very fun trad lead. Great Aid practice too! Planning on sharpening my aid skills on this route and the nearby cracks in preparation for the Finger of Fate on the Titan in a few weeks... :) :) |
By Andrew Bradberry From: Golden, CO Oct 16, 2010
| Such a fun lead! Every time I get on this I'm surprised at how much fun I have. The crack is super clean and eats up stoppers. Finish with that fun finger lock at the last move! |
By J P From: Denver, CO Aug 29, 2011 rating: 5.7
| Definitely agree that this is a good place to bring passive pro. Some opportunities to place small cams too. |
By Eben Daggett From: Boulder, CO May 29, 2012
| Climbed today! A ton of fun. We felt that "5.8 Crack" was a little boring and preferred calling it "Jasper's Ass Crack". Big fun! |
By mlauwers Jun 10, 2012 rating: 5.7
| Climbed this today - there's a handsized hold at the very top that is very loose and was detriment to finishing the route as it was before. Had the move left and use something else in order to finish. Be careful on that loose rock, could be quite dangerous for those below. |
By Scott McMahon From: Boulder, CO Jul 2, 2012
| There is also a second loose rock on the top 1/3 of the pitch. It's about a book-sized chockstone in the main crack, just before the roof. Mostly still solid, but it does shift and will get worse with more use as a hand and foothold. FYI, the broken hold at the top makes the top out much harder and more difficult to protect. New leaders can escape to the right if necessary. |
By Walt Barker From: AZ Jul 29, 2012
| Gear galore; micros and stoppers. "Book-sized rock" shifted a bit. Top definitely in the 5.8 range. |
By Addison From: Boulder, CO Nov 1, 2012 rating: 5.7
| Foot jams are so consistent you can climb this without your hands. Also not an .8. Would be 3 stars if it was longer. |
By Jay Eggleston From: Littleton Nov 27, 2012 rating: 5.8-
| There is only one 5.8 move on this climb, but it really is fun! |
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