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b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)
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5.8 Crack Climb 
Back to the future 
Bird Cage 
El Camino 
Elder Cleavage Direct 
Farewell to Arms 
Fat and Weak 
Grease Gun Groove 
Lonely Challenge 
Loose Goose 
Road Warrior 
Silver Bullet 
To Be Or Not To Be 
Transcontinental Nailway 
Tulip Mussel Garden 
Up Yours 
Yum Yum Yab Yum 

5.8 Crack Climb 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: early 1960s
Page Views: 974
Submitted By: Dana Bartlett on Mar 28, 2010
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1. Climb the first pitch of Loose Goose to a small ledge below a large crack. 5.6

2. Climb the crack above (you can't miss it) through two bulges (crux) to a stance. From there, it makes the most sense to traverse right about 30 feet to a pine tree and make one rappel (60 meter rope) back down as the climbing above the stance is neither hard nor interesting.

This can be done in one pitch.


Go left past Birdland for about 50 or 60 yards until the trail rises slightly and then levels off. You should be below a large amphitheater. Keep walking, down a little, then back up steeply for a short bit, until you come to a flat part of the trail with a pounded out area; this is perhaps 50 or 60 yards from the amphitheater. Your can orient yourself using the obvious start of Up Yours - Loose Goose starts just to the left - and you can see the crux crack about 100 feet up.


Standard 'Gunks rack plus a # 3 Camalot or its equivalent.

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Dec 31, 2013

NB: In the newest guide, Dick describes a different P1 for this route, starting 25' left of Loose Goose's P1. He says: climb crack (5.6, crux) and short slab to ledge, then up slab (5.4 R/X) a bit left of center, then head up and right to join Loose Goose at the ledge below the business (60').