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 ADVANCED
Lookout Mountain Crag
Select Route:
5.10 Crack aka "Thin Fingers" T,TR 
5.10a Face S 
5.7 Arete TR 
5.7 Dihedral T,TR 
5.7 Face TR 
5.8 Crack T,TR 
5.9 Crack aka "Into the Void" T,TR 
5.9 Face S 
Changing Corners TR 
Shake 'N' Bake T,S 

5.7 Face 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,103
Submitted By: Casey Bernal on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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Looking down the face from above.

Description 

This is the far left face, just left of the left facing dihedral. This is the route that I think the bolts at the top are for. To access the bolts on top of the crag, go to the (climbers) left side to a little alcove where there is one bolt. Use a belay to access the bolts about 10 more feet down on the face. I gave it no stars because there isn't a distinct line on the face to follow. I did almost give it one because there is a lot of interesting climbing all over the face.

Protection 

Definitely a toprope, unless you are a hardman in which case you should be climbing somewhere else. Use a short runner looped through one of the bolts, otherwise it will get edge loaded. Some gumbie did the bolt job.


Photos of 5.7 Face Slideshow Add Photo
The anchor.
The anchor.

Comments on 5.7 Face Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 20, 2014
By Lee Smith
Aug 6, 2006

The bolt anchors at the top of this face are horrible. There are four anchors. The top 2 are well back from the face and you would need triple length runners or longer to get your top rope into the right position. The 2 lower anchors, as mentioned in the description, will side load your biners badly. The rock is all scratched up around these bolts, evidence that people are in fact clipping them instead of putting in a sling.
By Lee Smith
Sep 1, 2006

Somebody put chains on the bolts above this face. Although they improve the carabiner side loading problem, you still need to equalize them, otherwise only one bolt is used and the other is not in play.
By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Sep 2, 2007

The further left you go, the easier the climbing gets near the top. Aim for the finger crack near the top.
By Jeremy Hakes
From: Golden, Colorado
Jul 11, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Just throwing out a feeler here - how would people feel about this being a sport route (bolted)? I think it would be a great route to have 4 bolts or so placed so it could be led from the bottom instead of always TR. There isn't much for trad gear, but it would make a great sport route, IMHO.
By Tom Hanson
Jul 11, 2008

Jeremy,

I suggest you read several of the comments under the Lookout Mountain main page here.
I would not advise adding any bolts to this crag and you might agree after reading other's posts.
By Matt Bolt
From: Lakewood
May 14, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

If you're going to break out the rack to hit up some of the other climbs here, might as well get a thrill on this climb. You can double protect about 15 feet off the deck and then run it out to some decent cam placements where the crack begins to angle into the center. I'm giving it 1 star for the climbing and 2 stars for the thrill.
By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Jun 15, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

Sketchy gear. I ended up pulling off to the arete on the left where the holds are more secure after placing a blue Metolius in the overlap. I could not find a location for two pieces despite my best effort and breaking off part of the overlap on the left side. Don't lead this unless you are comfortable soloing 5.7 slab.
By Walt Barker
From: AZ
Jul 29, 2012

Thought about leading this, but upon closer TR inspection, it has really sparse gear. It could be done though.
By Chris Cavallaro
Jul 30, 2012

So, are there STILL TR bolts on top to facilitate easy TR setup? Sorry to ask, but you never know these days.
By Walt Barker
From: AZ
Aug 11, 2012

Yup, anchors are still present, lots of gear options, too.
By Dave Clark 5.10
From: Golden, CO
Jul 20, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

A crack system that wanders up the face provides quite adequate trad protection (despite some of the previous comments to the contrary). Take your small cams, and this is a reasonable trad lead, as long as you can handle 20 feet of exposure on 5.6 slab to the first gear placement. Well-protected from there to the top. Take a couple longer draws to equalize the uneven anchors.