5.7 Face 5.7
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BETA PHOTO: The route follows the corner to the top.
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Description This is the far left face, just left of the left facing dihedral. This is the route that I think the bolts at the top are for. To access the bolts on top of the crag, go to the (climbers) left side to a little alcove where there is one bolt. Use a belay to access the bolts about 10 more feet down on the face. I gave it no stars because there isn't a distinct line on the face to follow. I did almost give it one because there is a lot of interesting climbing all over the face.
Protection Definitely a toprope, unless you are a hardman in which case you should be climbing somewhere else. Use a short runner looped through one of the bolts, otherwise it will get edge loaded. Some gumbie did the bolt job.
Looking down the face from above.
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The anchor.
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By Lee Smith
Aug 6, 2006
| The bolt anchors at the top of this face are horrible. There are four anchors. The top 2 are well back from the face and you would need triple length runners or longer to get your top rope into the right position. The 2 lower anchors, as mentioned in the description, will side load your biners badly. The rock is all scratched up around these bolts, evidence that people are in fact clipping them instead of putting in a sling. |
By Lee Smith
Sep 1, 2006
| Somebody put chains on the bolts above this face. Although they improve the carabiner side loading problem, you still need to equalize them, otherwise only one bolt is used and the other is not in play. |
By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Sep 2, 2007
| The further left you go, the easier the climbing gets near the top. Aim for the finger crack near the top. |
By Jeremy Hakes
From: Golden, Colorado
Jul 11, 2008
rating: 5.7
| Just throwing out a feeler here - how would people feel about this being a sport route (bolted)? I think it would be a great route to have 4 bolts or so placed so it could be led from the bottom instead of always TR. There isn't much for trad gear, but it would make a great sport route, IMHO. |
By Tom Hanson
Jul 11, 2008
| Jeremy,
I suggest you read several of the comments under the Lookout Mountain main page here.
I would not advise adding any bolts to this crag and you might agree after reading other's posts. |
By Matt Bolt
From: Lakewood
May 14, 2009
rating: 5.7 R
| If you're going to break out the rack to hit up some of the other climbs here, might as well get a thrill on this climb. You can double protect about 15 feet off the deck and then run it out to some decent cam placements where the crack begins to angle into the center. I'm giving it 1 star for the climbing and 2 stars for the thrill. |
By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Jun 15, 2012
rating: 5.7 R
| Sketchy gear. I ended up pulling off to the arete on the left where the holds are more secure after placing a blue Metolius in the overlap. I could not find a location for two pieces despite my best effort and breaking off part of the overlap on the left side. Don't lead this unless you are comfortable soloing 5.7 slab. |
By Walt Barker
From: AZ
Jul 29, 2012
| Thought about leading this, but upon closer TR inspection, it has really sparse gear. It could be done though. |
By Chris Cavallaro
Jul 30, 2012
| So, are there STILL TR bolts on top to facilitate easy TR setup? Sorry to ask, but you never know these days. |
By Walt Barker
From: AZ
Aug 11, 2012
| Yup, anchors are still present, lots of gear options, too. |
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