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Ice Cream Parlor
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5.6 Corner 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 3,998
Submitted By: Zeb Kenyon on Mar 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (84)
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5.6 Corner at Ice Cream Parlor.

Description 

A three pitch route on the far left side of the wall. A broken, wide-ish corner system equipped with rap rings. Lots of pro available.

P1: Short, but good, hand and fist crack with some nice positioning and movement. Easy to protect, this is a great beginner trad lead. Finish at some rap rings. (5.6)

P2: A Chossy bolted pitch with an occasional placement to an anchor. (5.5)

P3: A long and wide crack to an anchor. (5.6)

Most people climb only the first pitch.


Location 

Left of Crack 1, 2, and 3 in the corner.


Protection 

Standard Rack to at least a #4 Camalot and possibly a #5.



Photos of 5.6 Corner Slideshow Add Photo
Neyguy working his way up the first few moves.
Neyguy working his way up the first few moves.
Steve T leading the first pitch.
Steve T leading the first pitch.
Rachael at the anchors of 5.6 Corner, Ice Cream Parlor, Moab UT, April 4, 2008.
Rachael at the anchors of 5.6 Corner, Ice Cream Pa...
Dustin contemplating the next section of flake (the previous photo is Dustin's perspective in this picture).
Dustin contemplating the next section of flake (th...
Fun route for kids too. Here's Cody (age 5) at the top of 5.6 Corner, Ice Cream Parlor, Moab, UT, April 4, 2008.
Fun route for kids too. Here's Cody (age 5) at the...
Third pitch of the 5.6 Corner.
Third pitch of the 5.6 Corner.
5.6 Corner Trad Route.
BETA PHOTO: 5.6 Corner Trad Route.
Looking up into the guts of the flake.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up into the guts of the flake.
After completing an unknown second pitch that continued from the slab just right of Parlor Game Jonathan got the rope stuck. This is him sending Corner Crack to get the rope.
After completing an unknown second pitch that cont...
A view of the ledge littered with rocks.
BETA PHOTO: A view of the ledge littered with rocks.
The wide flake on the third pitch.
BETA PHOTO: The wide flake on the third pitch.
Steve Thomas leading the second pitch. <br /> <br />Photo by Lucy Clark.
Steve Thomas leading the second pitch.

Photo by L...
Josh at the belay anchors after traversing the ledge.
BETA PHOTO: Josh at the belay anchors after traversing the led...
<a href='http://rjohnasay.blogspot.com/2013/12/arches-np-thxgivingchristmas.html' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >rjohnasay.blogspot.com/2013/12/arches-np-thxgivingchristmas.>>></a>
Comments on 5.6 Corner Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 15, 2014
By MarkGriffin
From: Goretex-Vortex, CO
May 29, 2007

Short but fun. Didn't place anything larger than #2 camalot.

By Greg D
From: Here
Mar 17, 2008

Location is approximately 75 feet left of crack 3 and as you might guess, it's in the corner.

By Mark L
May 13, 2008

felt very secure and easier than 5.6

By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Mar 16, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Good jams the whole way. Any where it gets wide, there's face holds. I carried singles from .3 C4 up to #4 friend, although, I didn't need anything smaller than .5 C4. The face to the right can be toproped at a very technical 5.10.

By Jonathan Amburgey
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 31, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This is a nice warm-up, or a good intro climb to crack climbing in the Moab area. I found it to be a good route for practicing jamming and foot technique. Too bad it's not a longer route. There are anchors present at the top, just right of the last block after topping out (they're visible from the ground). There's also a nut lodged in the small finger crack just below the anchors (my partner tried to pull it, but it seems to be permanently wedged). Gear wise, I used primarily BD cams (#'s .5 - 2 (doubles on the size 2 are helpful), and a size 6 Metolius Master Cam).

By Eric Odenthal
Dec 9, 2009

looks like a second pitch continues up and right then moving back left following bolts to the anchor below the wide corner. haven't been up there yet, but hope to check it out when the snow melts.

By Dreez
Jul 15, 2010

This is actually a 3 pitch route. Pitch 2 is mostly bolts with maybe 1 medium cam. Super easy 5.4. but crumbly so be carefull. Pitch 3 goes up about 60 feet up WIDE flake so bring big gear maybe #4 and #5. Looks easy but I did not do it. I saw anchors on top of flake about 20 feet to right of the end of the flake crack. I saw the anchors from a different climb, the 5.8 crack back to the left. There are also rap bolts on the flake itself so you can bring 1 rope.

By Josh Cameron
Jun 12, 2011

Multipitch at Ice Cream Parlor! The third and final pitch is what defines this route. When we climbed it we placed 2 #4 C4's, but you can protect it well with just one. And if you want, you could even place a #5 near the start. However, the flake above isn't as wide as it looks from the belay. My second #4 barely fit; a #3 would have worked better.

This pitch had two cruxes. One down low that involved doing a sort of mantel onto a narrow shelf (which makes a good rest) and the second at the top of the flake which involved some lieback moves. There were great hands but slippery feet. Once on top of the flake, you still have work to do. Traverse right on a narrow ledge (there's a flake about chest high here that has great hands but it is extremely loose) to a belay anchor. I placed a #1 C3 in a crack between the ledge and headwall to protect my follower. Watch out at this belay because there is a great deal of loose rock. Two raps with a 70m got us to the ground.

Was told above the third pitch the climb continues up a flared chimney to the rim. The chimney looks manageable but the topout looks like it may be burly. Though I havent been up there so cant say for sure; just reporting on what it looked like to me from the top of the third pitch.

By Mountain Dreamer
Dec 9, 2011

I climbed the second and third pitch in 2009. I placed bolts and chains for the belays and a few bolts on pitch 2 because the rock was such poor quality I didn't trust some of the crack protection. Enjoyable if you don't mind some choss.

By budman
From: Moab,UT
Oct 1, 2012

Believe this route to be Tom Gilje's route Space Ghost with the one and only Stonefed regular Jasper. Really 4 pitches but the first two are easily linked. Link the first 2 and the 3rd is the off width which ends on top of a pillar exiting a hand crack (stay in the chimney to get there). Don't stop there as the 4th is the money pitch, 10b. Down climb from the pillar and continue up the wide hands section. It will get smaller and then traverse left under the roof. Pull the roof to exit and rap anchors are up on the next ledge and on the face. Oh yeh I'm a chickenshit and used a 5 friend and 2 number 6 friends on the off width. Might be nice to have 3 wide hands pieces for the 4th pitch. Doubles were o.k. from small fingers to hands.

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 29, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Maybe it's because I have fat hands and fingers but I thought this was considerably harder than 5.6. But so did my friends; Steve has average hands and Lucy has slender hands. The crack is awesome but the jams, and especially the feet, were a little tenuous.

By mike67mike
From: Rochester, MN
May 30, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Third pitch is closer to 5.8 if we're calling the first pitch 5.6. Bring wide gear. I had a #5, #4, and two #3s BD C4s and wish I had one more piece to place at the top (either another 3 or 4). But I'm a chicken.

By William Thiry
From: Lakewood, CO
Feb 16, 2014
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great route but be careful: this may be considered a 5.6 climb in Moab by climbers who are used to climbing vertical 5.11 cracks all the time, but in the real world this climb would be considered 5.7/7+. The Wind Ridge in 'stiff' Eldorado Canyon (5.6) is much easier than this; and Double Cross in Joshua Tree - rated 5.7+ - is also easier than this. It's a good route, just don't expect it it to be a 5.6.

It protects very well, so if a beginner trad leader tackles this at least they'll have good gear at the crux.

By Wyeth Rossi
From: Durango colorado
Feb 18, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Can you rap of the top of the second pitch with a 70 meter rope or do you need two ropes?

By Amir-Ch
From: Moab
Feb 18, 2014

My gear, a X Climb cam is stuck somewhere in the middle of the first pitch! If anyone can find a way to take it out, without destroying the rock, let me know please! I live in Moab.

By mike67mike
From: Rochester, MN
Jul 15, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Yes, you can rap off the second pitch anchors with a 70. Just did so. Also, beware of rattlesnakes at the base of the route. We found a small dwarf rattler under a rock we had been sitting on all morning and were told they're frequently there.