5.6 Corner 

Short but fun. Didn't place anything larger than #2 camalot.

Location is approximately 75 feet left of crack 3 and as you might guess, it's in the corner.

felt very secure and easier than 5.6

Good jams the whole way. Any where it gets wide, there's face holds. I carried singles from .3 C4 up to #4 friend, although, I didn't need anything smaller than .5 C4. The face to the right can be toproped at a very technical 5.10.

This is a nice warm-up, or a good intro climb to crack climbing in the Moab area. I found it to be a good route for practicing jamming and foot technique. Too bad it's not a longer route. There are anchors present at the top, just right of the last block after topping out (they're visible from the ground). There's also a nut lodged in the small finger crack just below the anchors (my partner tried to pull it, but it seems to be permanently wedged). Gear wise, I used primarily BD cams (#'s .5 - 2 (doubles on the size 2 are helpful), and a size 6 Metolius Master Cam).

looks like a second pitch continues up and right then moving back left following bolts to the anchor below the wide corner. haven't been up there yet, but hope to check it out when the snow melts.

This is actually a 3 pitch route. Pitch 2 is mostly bolts with maybe 1 medium cam. Super easy 5.4. but crumbly so be carefull. Pitch 3 goes up about 60 feet up WIDE flake so bring big gear maybe #4 and #5. Looks easy but I did not do it. I saw anchors on top of flake about 20 feet to right of the end of the flake crack. I saw the anchors from a different climb, the 5.8 crack back to the left. There are also rap bolts on the flake itself so you can bring 1 rope.

Multipitch at Ice Cream Parlor! The third and final pitch is what defines this route. When we climbed it we placed 2 #4 C4's, but you can protect it well with just one. And if you want, you could even place a #5 near the start. However, the flake above isn't as wide as it looks from the belay. My second #4 barely fit; a #3 would have worked better.

This pitch had two cruxes. One down low that involved doing a sort of mantel onto a narrow shelf (which makes a good rest) and the second at the top of the flake which involved some lieback moves. There were great hands but slippery feet. Once on top of the flake, you still have work to do. Traverse right on a narrow ledge (there's a flake about chest high here that has great hands but it is extremely loose) to a belay anchor. I placed a #1 C3 in a crack between the ledge and headwall to protect my follower. Watch out at this belay because there is a great deal of loose rock. Two raps with a 70m got us to the ground.

I climbed the second and third pitch in 2009. I placed bolts and chains for the belays and a few bolts on pitch 2 because the rock was such poor quality I didn't trust some of the crack protection. Enjoyable if you don't mind some choss.

Believe this route to be Tom Gilje's route Space Ghost with the one and only Stonefed regular Jasper. Really 4 pitches but the first two are easily linked. Link the first 2 and the 3rd is the off width which ends on top of a pillar exiting a hand crack (stay in the chimney to get there). Don't stop there as the 4th is the money pitch, 10b. Down climb from the pillar and continue up the wide hands section. It will get smaller and then traverse left under the roof. Pull the roof to exit and rap anchors are up on the next ledge and on the face. Oh yeh I'm a chickenshit and used a 5 friend and 2 number 6 friends on the off width. Might be nice to have 3 wide hands pieces for the 4th pitch. Doubles were o.k. from small fingers to hands.

Maybe it's because I have fat hands and fingers but I thought this was considerably harder than 5.6. But so did my friends; Steve has average hands and Lucy has slender hands. The crack is awesome but the jams, and especially the feet, were a little tenuous.