Mountain Project Logo

5.6-5.10 multipitch sport climbing?

Original Post
Cheyne Lempe · · Denver, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 150

Does anyone know where there are any bolted sport climbs around 4+ pitches in length?
I'm located in Denver.

Thanks!!

mtoensing · · AZ · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 705

there is people's choice 5.10d on highwire crag in clear creek canyon.

then there is solid gold on creek side crag. first 3 pitches are nothing harder than 5.9 and the 4th pitch is 5.12a and the 5th is 5.11. super exposed. try stuff in boulder canyon also. there is a lot of multi pitch in clear creek though

Adam Berger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 20

the young and the rackless in boulder canyon is a decent moderate

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520

In Clear Creek Canyon you also have "People's Choice" and "Dueces Wild" at Highwire. With some supplementary gear you can do "Bihedral Arete" on the Bihedral in Boulder Canyon, 2 pitches. Also, in Clear Creek, there is "Ride the Snake" on Mission Wall. Check MP for route descriptions.

Ron Olsen · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 11,360
El Potrero Chico has sport routes up to 20 pitches long, but that's going to be a road trip...

In Boulder Canyon, Tonnere Tower has a number of two-pitch sport routes: Toe the Line 10b, Total Eclipse 10a, and Stayin' Alive 10a. Also Buried Alive, a 3-pitch 10a sport route.
Kevin Fox · · parker · Joined Apr 2003 · Points: 970

a Great multipitch in clear creek is ride the snake 5.9 ish. Mabe's new clear creek book has it. it is on the mission wall.

Tradster · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 0

Warpaint in the West Stronghold (AZ) is 500 feet of beautiful sustained granite climbing. 5.10c is the rating. Super solid rock. Pitch 1 is 5.10c and 150 feet long, with nothing easier than 5.10a. P2 5.8 P3 5.10a P4 5.10a P5 is 5.9 or so. A truly great climb. Also, Wiley Javalina in Mendoza Canyon AZ is 800 of 5.9 granite...plenty of chickenheads. You can make this a sport climb if you run things out a bit. Nice rock, too. Rap Warpaint. Bring the two smallest tricams to pro 'pussy' pockets on the third pitch of Warpaint.

Ternes · · Littleton, Co · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,860

splatte, nuff said

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

there's no sport climbing allowed in the splatte, except 11-mile & devils; everything else is protected slabs, if that.

ccc is the ticket for sporty moderates.

Casey Bernal · · Wheat Ridge, CO · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 215

Ride the Snake in CCC is not fully a sport climb ... without trad protection you will be looking at some (un)healthy runouts.

The splatte has some fantastic sport pitches. Check the Land That Time Forgot.

The Young and the Rackless is also a lot of fun.

Kevin Fox · · parker · Joined Apr 2003 · Points: 970

Casey,
I thought everyone owned a few cams. I think the roof takes a number 3 or 4 camalot and for the traverse a .5 camalot. this is gear that any climber sport or trad should look into anyway. man can you imagine running that out over the roof pitch and swinging off. whew! goooood times.

khoa · · Tacomarado · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 53

the bihedral or upper dream canyon have some of my favs, if you're in boulder

Casey Bernal · · Wheat Ridge, CO · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 215

Kevin,
The Roof takes a .75 or 1 camalot if you want to protect the mantle. Yes, the whole route can be done with a very small rack. I wouldn't recommend only taking QDs, though apparently it has been done.

I should say that the first two pitches are of Ride The Snake requiring only draws. Then the next two pitches are of Gneiss Roof (AKA: Nice Ride) and those pitches require some cams. The link-up we call Nice Ride. I think I spewed all the beta on the links I provided, or Darren's book has good info, too.

(links corrected)

Ternes · · Littleton, Co · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,860

looks fun

Greg Hand · · Golden, CO · Joined Jan 2003 · Points: 2,623

Remember, Blob Rock (Young & Rackless) is currently closed for birds.
The Bihedral has lots of moderate sport routes. Where's Ray to Flags of Our Fathers is probably the easiest at 3 pitches.

Ben Bruestle · · Pueblo, CO · Joined Dec 2001 · Points: 490

Tanner Dome near Canon City has some great multipitch sport routes. Newlin Creek near Florence has a few as well.

tooTALLtim · · Vanlife · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 1,806
Lost Angel in Upper Dream Canyon is cool. If you get on Hunky Monkey, you can do just P1 and 2, then skip over to the second pitch anchors of Divination Direct, and finish its awesome roof to make a 4 pitch .10d route.

But I recommend getting into trad. It is the shiznit. If you have a desire for multipitch routes, you'll end up loving trad in the end.
Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145
Casey Bernal wrote: The splatte has some fantastic sport pitches. Check the Land That Time Forgot.
multi-pitch protected slab climbing, no??
Casey Bernal · · Wheat Ridge, CO · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 215
Mark Nelson wrote: multi-pitch protected slab climbing, no??
Well, correct. I think it is just a matter of semantics. It isn't typical splatte friction slabs as there are actually holds and more shiny metal things.

I assume you have been there, correct?
Evan C · · Chatty Fatty · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 218

Royal Flush on Mount Royal in Frisco is fun - about 8 pitches of moderate sport climbing with some scrambles between pitches.

Jon H · · PC, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 118

Way to revive a thread that was 7 years old.

And I'm seriously getting a good chuckle from seeing who the original poster was. Think Cheyne is still looking for bolted 5.10 routes?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
Post a Reply to "5.6-5.10 multipitch sport climbing?"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started