if i remember correctly (last time i climebd it was going on 10 years ago), those cracks aren't as good as they look for taking gear. kind of flared, bottomed out grooves. photo probably makes them look deeper.
I'm not sure I'd make a judgement on George and Joanne's style on this route (or any other of theirs, for that matter). If you hate the style of this route, climb its neighbor- Rock Warrior. Same climb, different style. You make the call on which is better. Personally, I think both have their place.
From the sounds of Rock Warrior something in between the two routes in style would have been just right.
From what I have heard about George and Joanne's bolting the idea was to have lots of bolts due to the suspect quality of the sandstone. A fine idea in the name of safety, a lame idea in the name of excitement.
The fatter the (replaced) bolts get, the easier it is for the next generation to bitch and moan about "too many, too many!"
Anyone putting up stance-drilled quarter-incher horrorshows on Aztec sandstone, please let us bask in your opinions. The rest of you ain't no Siskel and Ebert. This thing was still puckery with all the rusty homemade hangers and corroded 1980s hardware store bolts a few years ago, maybe we should abolish the ASCA so you guys can be appropriately scared?
Joanne put this rig up pregnant. I challenge the Kleenex Patrol to knock up each others' butts, wait for the buttbaby to start kicking, then start hooking your way up the Velvet Wall and hand drilling.
So much talk from the peanut gallery. You know some people really like this route?
And even MORE shocking, some people are actually out climbing rather than passing judgement as an expression of sexual frustration?!?!
Speaking of which, it's 86 out and getting shady@the new spot. Laters, haters.
I knew you were lurking Killis. I was just wondering if anyone had contemplated doing this all on gear and had it been bolted/climbed differently how would that would effect people's positive or negative view of the route. Consider it a thought experiment ;)
Come down here and climb it with me and see what you think. Michael Reardon made a Las Vegas climbing movie (you can find it used VHS for under ten bucks on Amazon.com) that features Prince being climbed on the old shite bolts/hangers, one of the scenes is the two climbers looking up at this section, trying to figure out how to avoid falling on the belayer and how to climb it. It's thin up there...My first time on the route we got three pitches up before my partner's toes gave out (shoulda brought butt bags, they mean it when they say hanging belays). I think I soloed the first pitch, which does take gear, and put in three or four pieces, skipping around six bolts. It's not a gear climb-it's a mostly bolts mixed climb. Very few crack features and/or placements.
the main memory i have of doing this route the first time is of 6 people hanging off of 3 old 1/4"ers at a belay. we were rapping back down, there was a party at an anchor, and another party was in the process of bailing from another route to the right. we all converged on one anchor at the same time. what a mess. i rapped out of that mess first, and when i looked up, it looked like one of those 'human pyramid' (you know when 3 people get on hands and knees on the ground, 2 people get on hands and knees on the previus people's backes, etc) - but cantilevered into space! yikes!
You think my profile pics are porntastic? You should see my VHS collection, SON! There are worse routes around, go climb a few recent bolt-free lines around here and tell me how much fun you have. Red Rock+bolts=goodness, climb Rock Warrior and get back to me on that.