Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Bank
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
2010A 
2150 A.D. 
5.10 Crack 
5.10a corner 
5.11 Arete 
5.9 crack 
A Sharp 
Abu Simbel  
Aerial Solution 
Alcohollica  
Alfalfa Omega 
Another Bolted Crack 
Aoxamoxoa 
Apple Cracks, The 
Aspiring Frog 
B Flat 
B/C 
Baby Face Nelson 
Back To The Future 
Bambi Meets Godzilla 
Binge and Purge 
Birthing the Piggy 
Bits and Pieces 
Black Hole Sun 
Bum Cakes (formerly listed as Buns) 
C Major 
Cat Ate My Homework, The 
Cerebral Brain Freeze 
CJ & The Lesbian Seagull 
Concentrated Weirdness 
Courage and Enlightenment 
Crab Nation 
Dancin` Shoes 
Dave Dangle 
Deconstructing Harry 
Dillinger 
Disciples of Hell 
Doggie Style 
Don Show, The 
Dust Lust 
Emperor's Robe 
Energy Before Ecstasy 
Ethics? What Ethics? 
Flesh Tuxedo 
From Russia With Love 
Future Fossil 
Gambino 
Gen X ation (aka Musso Route) 
Generation X 
Goodfellas 
Harry 
Heaven is Waiting 
Heavy Weather 
Heretic 
Hostile Crankover 
Ice Cream Hangover 
Incredible Weather 
jasonbecker.com 
Knot Too Many Roaches 
Ladies' Night In Buffalo 
Large Marge 
Le Petit Verdon 
Le Pincher 
Lefty 
Lesser of Two Evils 
Let Me Out 
Leverage 
Lick and a Promise 
Lime Street 
Living in America 
Lloyd 
Lost Planet Airman 
Loves Me Like a Rock 
Lynch Mob 
Ma Barker 
Machine Gun Kelly 
McFly 
Metamusso 
Mighty Mouse 
Misery 
Mismatched Partners 
Neopolitan Headrush 
New Comer (aka New Corner) 
No Future for the Timid 
No Rest For the Wicked 
Number 1 Super Guy 
On the Mushroom 
Once Upon a Time 
Otis 
Peking 
Pennies and Piggydust 
Peter Pan 
Pig City Nights 
Pink Torpedo 
Piņon Slalom 
Plate Tectonics 
Poncho 
Poncho and the Three Perverts 
Power Broker 
Pretty Boy Floyd 
Primal Scream 
Project Focus 
Puking Yuppies 
Purple Packer Smacker 
R.A.M.M. 
Razor Burn (aka Stewart's Slab) 
Richter Scale 
Ripped 
Rock Frog 
Scarf and Barf 
Scarface 
Season Down Under 
Shady Character 
Shelfish 
Solitude 
Sonic Youth 
Soprano 
Sparkle In The Rain 
Starving Hippies 
Staying Power 
Stick It 
Stomach Stapler 
Stormy Weather 
Stranger in Moscow 
Sty in the Sky 
SuedeHead 
Surreal Estate 
Sweepings, The 
Taping Tendons 
Team Anorexia 
Tendon Respite 
This is Your Brain 
Thunder Tactics 
Thunder Thighs 
Tired Arms Recovery Program (T.A.R.P.) 
Tribal Boundary 
Trundle 
Tuff Shed (aka B&C) 
Unknown 5.7 
Unsaid, The (aka The Brothel) 
Unusual Weather 
Ussen 
War In The Banks 
Welcome to Shelf Road 
What's Biting Me? 
Who Asked You? 
Why Left 
Will Purr For Treats 
You Were Meant For Me 
Unsorted Routes:

5.11 Arete 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Van Horn?
Page Views: 229
Submitted By: Phill T on Feb 8, 2012
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

This is the striking bolted arete to the left of SuedeHead. Climb the 5.easy right-facing dihedral past a bolt or two to the ledge on the left. Reach up and right, clip the bolt, and pull into the business. The first crux comes with strenuous layback moves requiring standing on a brick sized loose block. The fun doesn't end there, and the route will stick with you for another 4-5 bolts until you clip the chains.

This route clocks in at 5.11a in the book, but both my partner and I felt it was a huge sandbag at least as an onsight. The holds can be out of sight around the arete, and the sequence was not obvious at all. Pulling the crux will be much more difficult if/when that little block blows.


Protection 

Bolts.



Comments on 5.11 Arete Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 24, 2012

I presume this is the route called "Side of Bacon" in this Bank overview photo?

By dancesatmoonrise
Nov 15, 2012
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Jason, correct. However, it's been known as "The Arete" since the days of Mark's first book (1990.) Same route. Classic 5.11 arete.

Not 100% sure, but seem to remember it's a Van Horn route.