This is the striking bolted arete to the left of SuedeHead. Climb the 5.easy right-facing dihedral past a bolt or two to the ledge on the left. Reach up and right, clip the bolt, and pull into the business. The first crux comes with strenuous layback moves requiring standing on a brick sized loose block. The fun doesn't end there, and the route will stick with you for another 4-5 bolts until you clip the chains.
This route clocks in at 5.11a in the book, but both my partner and I felt it was a huge sandbag at least as an onsight. The holds can be out of sight around the arete, and the sequence was not obvious at all. Pulling the crux will be much more difficult if/when that little block blows.
Nov 15, 2012
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
Jason, correct. However, it's been known as "The Arete" since the days of Mark's first book (1990.) Same route. Classic 5.11 arete.
Not 100% sure, but seem to remember it's a Van Horn route.