5.10 Crack aka "Thin Fingers" 5.10c C1
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| Type: | Trad, TR, Aid, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a/b A0-1 [details] |
| FA: | Unknown |
| Submitted By: | Steve Matthys on Oct 9, 2002 |
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BETA PHOTO
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Description #3 in the beta picture, this route is an easy aid if you can not lead it. You should be solid on 5.10 lead before you attempt this on lead, some of the placements are tricky.
Protection Small cams and stoppers. The TR anchors are very hard to reach, plan on setting an anchor and having somebody lower you to them.
The 5.10 crack (trad).
| A little rest before the tough part!
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| Comments on 5.10 Crack aka "Thin Fingers" |
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By Jason Kaplan From: Glenwood ,Co Jun 2, 2007 rating: 5.9+ C0
| I have done this route once or twice, the lower section is a blast with great pro and fun fingerlocks with good edges for feet. There is good gear under the overhang but only marginal gear above, I just put a good cam in, extended it and pulled the roof which is slightly akward. I wasn't sure if this was 5.9 or 10 c. It would be cool if it was 10 c but it would be the only 5.10 trad route I have ever done. Also you can get a red lowe sliding nut just above the lip of the roof, but it's kinda blind and wierd, a friend of mine took a fall on one and it held. I think there might be a nut placment above too or another small cam, but it seems the energy is better spent topping it out. |
By darin Sep 14, 2007
| Did this for the first time last night. Nice climbing, that protects well with small cams, and a few stoppers. Plug an Alien below the roof and run to the top from there. A rating of 10c might be a bit inflated, but somewhere in the 5.10 range for sure. |
By Ken McVicker Sep 17, 2007
| I would agree that this is 5.10, but I think a low letter rating. This was a really fun climb with ring lock, finger stacking and lots of small edges, even a Gaston or two. |
By Jason Kaplan From: Glenwood ,Co Oct 18, 2007 rating: 5.9+ C0
| I think that Deviant in Eldo is harder then this one, at least more sustained and pumpy. I flashed this clean but had to rest on gear on Deviant. I think 9 is a good bet if it's a 10. It's a 1 move wonder IMO. |
By Phil Persson From: Denver, Colorado Oct 7, 2008
| A Wonderful little route, would prob. be old-school 5.9+ at Eldo, pulling the roof actually isn't that bad, you can fire in a bomber Blue TCU or equivalent for some piece of mind right above the roof, and its just a big pull on jugs. Fun, thin moves below this as well with a few decent fingerlocks in the thin crack. The rock here in excellent, not to mention 5 minutes from my house! :) |
By John Layko Torkleson Aug 26, 2012 rating: 5.10b C1
| Felt 5.10 to me. Great finger locks down low. Once you figure out the sequence at the roof, pulling it is not that bad. |
By Jay Eggleston From: Littleton Dec 3, 2012
| There are no independent anchors for this climb. The best ones to use are to climber's left on the 5.10 face. The crux on this is at the roof and short. It is no harder than 5.9 below the roof. |
By kevinthediltz From: Durango, CO Jan 29, 2013 rating: 5.10c C0
| Climbed this today in 40 degree weather. This is a really fun route, good finger jams down low with a nice rest just before the roof. Heel hook above the roof as soon as you can swing a leg up there, and you will pull it no problem. |
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