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5) Multiple SAX Partners
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British PG13
Avg: 2.5 from 73
votes
Routes in Sax Wall
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0.1) Do You Think I'm Saxy? S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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1) A Little Spicy!!! S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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2) Body and Soul S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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I Still Believe TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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3) Morphine S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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4) Sax-a-holic S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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5) Multiple SAX Partners S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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6) No such THANG as Too Much Sax S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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7) Crack With No Name T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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KoKo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | FA Unknown. FFA Jeff Engels |
| Page Views: | 2,730 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Dreez on Oct 11, 2010 |
| Admins: | K Ice, Kris Gorny |
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Access Issue: Above walls is private property so unless you want to tangle with railroad lawyers, maintain low profile.
Details
Description
"
For start, right of bolt in the angling right crack.From the first ledge go up to immedge right of bolts to finger ledges.From second ledge, go up finger holds up the panels and use finger holds on right and left of panel, and then do layback at top. Clipping the bolt is a bit of a stretch but can be done if you get your feet high enough. Use long draw too. Last panel, go up same panel where bolt is, can't use holds on left or right. Tall man reach to get to hand ledge. Above the bolt go straight up the final panel, use half moon tiny old, very slopy, use drill holes for feet."
Prefer no drytooling here. Drytooling destroys routes. Tradition is to use web anchors and trad gear
if you really need to drytool. Bolts are for sport climbers. Let's save these climbs for YOUR kids. Thanks. Dreez
For start, right of bolt in the angling right crack.From the first ledge go up to immedge right of bolts to finger ledges.From second ledge, go up finger holds up the panels and use finger holds on right and left of panel, and then do layback at top. Clipping the bolt is a bit of a stretch but can be done if you get your feet high enough. Use long draw too. Last panel, go up same panel where bolt is, can't use holds on left or right. Tall man reach to get to hand ledge. Above the bolt go straight up the final panel, use half moon tiny old, very slopy, use drill holes for feet."
Prefer no drytooling here. Drytooling destroys routes. Tradition is to use web anchors and trad gear
if you really need to drytool. Bolts are for sport climbers. Let's save these climbs for YOUR kids. Thanks. Dreez
Photos
3 Comments