5) Multiple SAX Partners
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British PG13
Type: | Sport, TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | FA Unknown. FFA Jeff Engels |
Page Views: | 2,730 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | Dreez on Oct 11, 2010 |
Admins: | K Ice, Kris Gorny |
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Description
"
For start, right of bolt in the angling right crack.From the first ledge go up to immedge right of bolts to finger ledges.From second ledge, go up finger holds up the panels and use finger holds on right and left of panel, and then do layback at top. Clipping the bolt is a bit of a stretch but can be done if you get your feet high enough. Use long draw too. Last panel, go up same panel where bolt is, can't use holds on left or right. Tall man reach to get to hand ledge. Above the bolt go straight up the final panel, use half moon tiny old, very slopy, use drill holes for feet."
Prefer no drytooling here. Drytooling destroys routes. Tradition is to use web anchors and trad gear
if you really need to drytool. Bolts are for sport climbers. Let's save these climbs for YOUR kids. Thanks. Dreez
For start, right of bolt in the angling right crack.From the first ledge go up to immedge right of bolts to finger ledges.From second ledge, go up finger holds up the panels and use finger holds on right and left of panel, and then do layback at top. Clipping the bolt is a bit of a stretch but can be done if you get your feet high enough. Use long draw too. Last panel, go up same panel where bolt is, can't use holds on left or right. Tall man reach to get to hand ledge. Above the bolt go straight up the final panel, use half moon tiny old, very slopy, use drill holes for feet."
Prefer no drytooling here. Drytooling destroys routes. Tradition is to use web anchors and trad gear
if you really need to drytool. Bolts are for sport climbers. Let's save these climbs for YOUR kids. Thanks. Dreez
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