View Routes near 5) Multiple SAX Partners| Sax Wall |  |
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| 1) A Little Spicy!!! S,TR | ||
| 2) Body and Soul T,S | ||
| 3) Morphine S,TR | ||
| 4) Sax-a-holic S,TR | ||
| 5) Multiple SAX Partners S,TR | ||
| 6) No such THANG as Too Much Sax S,TR | ||
| 7) Crack With No Name T,TR | ||
| 8) Easy Sax is the Best Sax S |
5) Multiple SAX Partners
YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13
| Type: | Sport, TR, 50' |
| Consensus: | YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details] |
| FA: | FA Unknown. FFA Jeff Engels |
| Page Views: | 608 |
| Submitted By: | Dreez on Oct 11, 2010 |
You & This Route | Other Opinions (14)
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Description
"
For start, right of bolt in the angling right crack.From the first ledge go up to immedge right of bolts to finger ledges.From second ledge, go up finger holds up the panels and use finger holds on right and left of panel, and then do layback at top. Clipping the bolt is a bit of a stretch but can be done if you get your feet high enough. Use long draw too. Last panel, go up same panel where bolt is, can't use holds on left or right. Tall man reach to get to hand ledge. Above the bolt go straight up the final panel, use half moon tiny old, very slopy, use drill holes for feet."
For start, right of bolt in the angling right crack.From the first ledge go up to immedge right of bolts to finger ledges.From second ledge, go up finger holds up the panels and use finger holds on right and left of panel, and then do layback at top. Clipping the bolt is a bit of a stretch but can be done if you get your feet high enough. Use long draw too. Last panel, go up same panel where bolt is, can't use holds on left or right. Tall man reach to get to hand ledge. Above the bolt go straight up the final panel, use half moon tiny old, very slopy, use drill holes for feet."
Location
Second route from left. Route 5
Protection
6 bolts
Equipped by Michael Endrizzi and Joe Mueller
Equipped by Michael Endrizzi and Joe Mueller
| Comments on 5) Multiple SAX Partners | Add Comment |
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By jack powers From: St. Paul, Mn Jul 12, 2014 |
I recommend that the first-time leader of this route first climb the 10a to the left that shares anchors with this route and put the draws in while being lowered from the 10a. If you don't do this and you aren't very tall, you'll have to pull the crux without having first clipped the crux-protecting bolt while looking at an ankle buster onto the ledge below. One move wonder, but pretty cool. PG-13. |
