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5 Gallon Buckets 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 16,462
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Jan 22, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (316)
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Luke Shimmon 1st outdoor climb!

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Description 

The huge huecos of 5 Gallon Buckets are often the first piece of rock that a climber touches on his or her first trip to the park. The fun and consistent 5.8 climbing is straightforward and enjoyable as a warmup or a toprope. A Smith classic!

This is the left-most route on the big huecoed section of the wall. There's one bolt that can't be seen from the ground (it's in one of the big huecos), so remember to bring a 'draw for it.

Due to its central location and easy grade this is possibly the most popular route at Smith Rock. There is almost always a rope up on it and a crowd of people at the base. It receives early morning sun and keeps it all day, making it a good starting point for the cold days.

Protection 

Route is protected by 7 bolts and a bolted anchor.


Photos of 5 Gallon Buckets Slideshow Add Photo
I figured my friends were bored seeing photos of me climb.  Have to keep it fun, kids!
I figured my friends were bored seeing photos of m...
Hueco Ladder
Hueco Ladder
Warming up...
Warming up...
Shadow
Shadow
Me at the top of 5.
Me at the top of 5.
Nearing the top of 5-Gallon Buckets. 3/2009.
Nearing the top of 5-Gallon Buckets. 3/2009.
Mark leads 5 Gallon Buckets on a sunny October afternoon.  Those huecos are led-gen-dare-ee.
Mark leads 5 Gallon Buckets on a sunny October aft...
from across the river spring 2013
from across the river spring 2013

Comments on 5 Gallon Buckets Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 27, 2013
By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 25, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Thought this was a fun warm-up for the neighboring routes.
By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Feb 28, 2006

A fun warm up, but once the sun hits this route, the sun turns the buckets into slippery buckets of ooze.
By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Dec 28, 2006

The bolt in the hueco is just cruel. When its cold enough that the rock feels like the metal, its easy to grab the hanger thinking its just a feature. Good warmup.
By ferrells
Jan 18, 2008

Is this another name for a route in the Watts guide, or is it newer than the guidebook?
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Jan 22, 2008

This route was put up just as the 1992 Watts guide went to print. If you read the introduction to the Watts Guide carefully he mentions it by name, along with other late entries.
By Mark Gibson
From: Seattle, WA
Mar 25, 2009

An awesome route that gets traffic seemingly 24/7. If you don't have to wait in line, you should buy a lottery ticket the same day. The relentless hiking does not diminish the awesome climbing however. And the shoe rubber filling up most the footholds should be of help to those lacking any footwork. If you're feeling a little more saucy, or just don't see the bolt hidden in the hueco, there's really no problem in running it out to the next bolt. This is Smith after all so it wouldn't hurt to get into the run-out spirit even on the warm-up 5.8's.
By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
Sep 18, 2009

You can see your reflection on many of the holds...
By Todd99
May 13, 2011

The first bolt is pretty high off the deck. For safety's sake a stick clip isn't a bad idea. All the holds are pretty solid leading up to it but might be a little nerve wracking for a new leader.
By Casey Holmes
Jun 6, 2011

Its a fun warm up, but watch out for bird droppings. Two days in a row I saw someone get hit by a bomber.
By lunabloomgirl
From: North East Washington
Jul 6, 2011

Serious first bolt...
that's what I'd been told with serious solemn looks from other climbers.
By Alex Mitchell
From: Cincinnati, OH
May 27, 2013

Best 5.8 sport route I have climbed anywhere!