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 ADVANCED
Reef Rock on Mica Mt.
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
(2) Short Story T 
(1) J- Cubed T 
(3) Mystery Route T 
(4) Supergoat and the Singing Sardines T 
(5) Cryptic Friction T 
(5a) MC Runner T 
(6) Bombs Away T 
(7) Fiona's Feelin' Groovy T 

(5) Cryptic Friction 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 650'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Michael McClung, Joe Drago, J.Mw., 6/08
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 584
Submitted By: JMayhew on Sep 19, 2008

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Michael nearing the belay on P3.

Description 

1. Climb crack to a small ledge and belay. (5.8 170 ft.)
2. Continue up crack a short ways until you can diagonal left out of original crack along a flake/crack to main corner with a tricky exit move. Up easier ground to belay at the left end of large, jungle ledge. (5.8+ 160 ft.)
Shift belay right, thru jungle to base of flake system and chimney.
3. A tricky boulder move gains a long flake system that is to the left of the main chimney. At its top, diagonal right to another shorter flake/crack and belay on a small ledge under a shallow roof. (5.8+ 130 ft.)
4. Undercling right and turn corner, continuing along easier ground to the top. (5.9 180 ft.)
(Pitch 3 and 4 variation: Climb chimney. 5.7 FA JFx, Susan Brownell, JMw)

Descent: Head back and left down steep descent gully as for ”J- Cubed,” or walk to far right end of the wall and rap “Bombs Away”.

Location 

At the middle of the wall is a huge block that rests on the main wall. This route starts in a long crack that is to the right and behind this block. The last 2 pitches finish just left of a long, obvious orange stain that is clearly visible from the trail. 4th class up to a small nook with a tree at the base of the crack.

Protection 

"Standard" with doubles of cams to #3, and a #4. A #5 camalot was used but probably not necessary. Smaller tri-cams are handy.


Photos of (5) Cryptic Friction Slideshow Add Photo
The long exciting crack on pitch 1.
The long exciting crack on pitch 1.

Comments on (5) Cryptic Friction Add Comment
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By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 20, 2008

Looks like a pretty good route. Why only the two stars?
By JMayhew
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 20, 2008

They're all excellent routes, in my opinion. I discovered a long while ago that I use a different set of standards than most people, so I stopped rating climbs. (Seems people like solid rock and good pro!) In posting these I couldn't continue unless I rated them so I went with "good." I'll let people make up their own minds. Definitely worth the hike out there--if you're into that kind of thing.
By JFox
From: Flagstaff
Nov 21, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A big walk from Happy Valley (took us four hours to Spud Rock Springs) leads to one of the prettiest camp sites on earth, a stone throw from the cliff. A bunch of great, big routes in a very remote setting, most under 5.10. Rock quality is excellent and gear is generally good.