4_P_Beyer 5.10+ PG13
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III |
| Consensus: | 5.10+ [details] |
| FA: | Beyer |
| Submitted By: | Jesse Zacher on Sep 26, 2012 |
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Orange route shows the rough way of the line.
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Description This is a nice, adventurous, multi-pitch climb on a nice, large face. While a bit sporty in some areas, the rock quality, movement, and length all make it a good outing.
Pitch 1: 5th class up to the obvious ledge or start the day with the route Beyer 5 (70').
Pitch 2: The money pitch. Use lots of long slings to reduce rope drag. From the right hand side of the ledge slab, climb high until you can clip the first bolt. There is a deep, well-featured, peg band that forms a rail to the left which has a bolt or two, stay right of this. Continue up clipping bolts and begin traversing left. Make a fun move around an arête and gain a large ledge halfway up the pitch. From here, make a committing move on another rail like feature (the previously noted climb to the left can be reached via this ledge and a bolt way out left don’t clip it. Keep traversing up and left to gain a bolted anchor. 5.10 (120').
Pitch 3: Head straight up to a rotten section of rock and follow bolts left. Some tenuous movement gains the right-facing dihedral below the large ledge with a tree. Gear to the tree ledge. 5.10+ (90').
Pitch 4: From the ledge, traverse up and right to clip a bolt and make some balancy movements to gain a left-facing dihedral. Continue up until easier terrain and belay at a tree. 5.10 (90').
Location This route begins either with Beyer 5 or to the left of the cluster of Beyer routes (Beyer 4, Beyer 3, Beyer 2).
Do a double rope rap from the tree at the top to anchors at the top of pitch 3. Do a double rope rap to the top of pitch 1. Downclimb or trust in the old dead tree to rap off to the ground.
Protection Slings, QDs, single set of cams.
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