Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), Grade II |
FA: | Dave Rone, George Kremer: June 1991 |
Page Views: | 1,233 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Dave Rone on Jun 9, 2012 |
Admins: | Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
VOLUNTARY JUNE CLIMBING CLOSURE
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.
Description
411 Southwest starts one crack to the left of the Direct Southwest route. Start up this crack and then traverse left past a bolt to the next crack. Now use the crack, and edges and flakes on the face and arete to the left, to climb past 4 bolts (first crux). Continue up placing small gear until you reach the next bolts, passing a two-bolt anchor on the right. Climb past these bolts (second crux) and then continuous 5.10/5.11 climbing will get you to the upper anchor, a bolt and a fixed pin.
All in all the climbing is thin and sustained with few good rests. Beware of a loose flake on the left, near the top of the route.
All in all the climbing is thin and sustained with few good rests. Beware of a loose flake on the left, near the top of the route.
Location
411 Southwest is the 1st crack to the left of the Direct Southwest route. You will see the first bolt to the left of this crack.
If you brought 2 ropes, one rappel will get you to the base of the route. Otherwise, one rope rappel to the intermediate anchors, and another rappel to the base.
You must climb a 120', 5.7 crack to the top of the Southwest Buttress to access the route. This crack will require a selection of medium stoppers and medium to large TCU's for gear. There is a two-bolt anchor at the top of this pitch.
If you brought 2 ropes, one rappel will get you to the base of the route. Otherwise, one rope rappel to the intermediate anchors, and another rappel to the base.
You must climb a 120', 5.7 crack to the top of the Southwest Buttress to access the route. This crack will require a selection of medium stoppers and medium to large TCU's for gear. There is a two-bolt anchor at the top of this pitch.
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