411 Southwest  5.12b

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.12b [details] FA:  Dave Rone, George Kremer: June 1991 Submitted By:  Dave Rone on Jun 9, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Devils Tower National Monument Lifts Current Prairie Falcon Climbing Route Closure MORE INFO >>> 07/01/2012: Because no falcon nesting activity has been observed, the prairie falcon nesting closures currently in effect will be removed on Sunday, July 1, thus opening these areas to normal recreational climbing activities. The areas to be reopened include on the northeast face, routes between and including “Belle Fourche Buttress” and “Maid in the Shaid” (routes #68 to #93), as well as the “North Face” rappel route. Separate from the falcon closure, Devils Tower National Monument has a voluntary climbing closure in effect for the month of June, out of respect for American Indian cultural traditions. For further information on climbing closures, please contact the monument’s Chief of Resource Management, Angela Wetz, at (307) 467-5283 ext 212 or Angela_Wetz@nps.gov. For general climbing information please contact the Devils Tower Climbing Office at 307-467-5283, ext. 632. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

411 Southwest starts one crack to the left of the Direct Southwest route. Start up this crack and then traverse left past a bolt to the next crack. Now use the crack, and edges and flakes on the face and arete to the left, to climb past 4 bolts (first crux). Continue up placing small gear until you reach the next bolts, passing a two-bolt anchor on the right. Climb past these bolts (second crux) and then continuous 5.10/5.11 climbing will get you to the upper anchor, a bolt and a fixed pin.

All in all the climbing is thin and sustained with few good rests. Beware of a loose flake on the left, near the top of the route.

Location 

411 Southwest is the 1st crack to the left of the Direct Southwest route. You will see the first bolt to the left of this crack.

If you brought 2 ropes, one rappel will get you to the base of the route. Otherwise, one rope rappel to the intermediate anchors, and another rappel to the base.

You must climb a 120', 5.7 crack to the top of the Southwest Buttress to access the route. This crack will require a selection of medium stoppers and medium to large TCU's for gear. There is a two-bolt anchor at the top of this pitch.

Protection 

This pitch has 9 bolts (including the intermediate anchor). It will also require small-medium stoppers, a two sets of RP's, and a two sets of C3's or the equivalent, and Friends to #2.5.