4 x 4 5.11-
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11- [details] |
| FA: | Unknown |
| Submitted By: | Joel Hickok on Jun 20, 2004 |
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4 x 4 on 4 x 4 wall.
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Description When parking just before the cattle guard and approaching up the main trail, this route is visible as a big hands crack in a slot with a triangular roof just before a set of anchors. From the top of the trail navigate a 100 yards or so right (or north) to the base of the route. The climb is straight forward plugging and chugging until the roof where the size changes to about 4 inches. After turning the roof (crux), the anchors are just above. Possible second pitch continues on, although I am not sure if it has been done or not. Looks like it goes. I don't know what the guidebooks are calling the grade of this route these days. Difficulty when pulling the roof on this climb is subject to hand size (as always at Indian Creek), so you could find this to be 10+ or solid 11.
Protection Approximate guess: 2 - #2 Camalots 1 - #3 Friend 4 - #3 Camalots 2 - #3.5 Camalots
T.Blom working the 'easy' part on 4x4 (the start i...
| lucky to have big hands, still sat a few times. Pr...
| No description necessary.
| Derrick at the lip!
| Stem
| apirion eyeing the roof on 4x4
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By Anonymous Coward Jun 21, 2004
| Sandbag alert! Sandbag alert! This is rattly fists through the roof... burly as hell unless you have big mits. When I was there several years ago, the plague at the base called it 5.11. I think the Marco I.C. guide has a grade disparity between the topo and description rating. |
By Grant Bryans From: buena vista colorado May 11, 2007
| for me it was rattly cups through a roof. fun, yet the 10 (as with most routes at the creek are) is realitive to your hand size, if the jams were more secure for me it would have for sure gone 10. |
By bheller From: SL UT Nov 4, 2008
| I'd agree this route is a sandbag at 10+. I have big hands and couldn't get but one fist jam under the roof, and then had to use very marginal forearm jams out the roof as it was just too small to take my fists. Felt desperate. Some lieback with better luck. 3.5 camalots essential for roof. |
By Timmamok From: Durango, CO May 8, 2009 rating: 5.10d
| This route is 11- |
By Alex Garhart From: Grand Junction, CO Oct 20, 2009 rating: 5.11-
| No matter the grade this route is awesome. And no matter your hand size there is more than one way to skin this cat. |
By snowhazed From: Oakland, Ca Oct 12, 2010 rating: 5.11a/b
| Name a 10 at the creek that goes full horizontal for a body length and requires cutting your feet at a lip- regardless of the jam size. Name an 11- out there that feels harder. I had perfect fists out the roof- but ratchety cups above. Hard for every hand size- and also a great great route. |
By JMo From: Flagstaff, AZ Aug 19, 2012 rating: 5.11
| This 10d rating for this route on mp has gotta go. Absurd. Of course it's a stellar route. But what egomaniac feels the need to call this 10? |
By Jeff Scheuerell Nov 10, 2012 rating: 5.11a/b
| Sweet pitch! I never got a single fist jam. Hands to cups to big cups, but no fist. Also I wouldn't bring a 3.5 Camalot unless you don't have enough 3s. Be carefull not to get the 3.5 stuck. I thought it was harder than 10+ but could see 10+ if one had much bigger hands |
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