This is THE CHILL ZONE. It is the tall, wide, tilted platform that juts out into the ocean and is visible from afar. When the mobs congeal and the cheerleading begins, you will see why the name is so appropriate. It is very exposed, and thus balmy in summer and blustery in the winter. This area consists of several different sections, starting from the Whale's Head on the right, passing the pyramidal buttress of YumYum Wall, the raised cave of Recital Hall, to the main point of the Music Hall, and on down to the Broken Faces. A vast majority of the routes here are traditional climbs, although most people come here to climb only four routes: the beginner classic Wedding Route, the grade-pusher Fucking Fall, the unorthodox Big Drum, and the style-challenging Fingercrack. If you aren't sucked in by the lackadaisical atmosphere, there are many other stellar climbs to be done.
The Whale's Head is the first area you come to, just after you step down from the Bulletin Board outside of Long Lane. At the lowest point, hop over onto a boulder and belay from atop for routes like Moby Dick. This wall's only bolts are anchors, which allow you to combine the moderate classics with stout testpieces like Sword or topout to a beautiful view via Call Me Ishmael.
The next area, separated by a chunky, vegetated weakness, is the Sky Wall. Goes into the shade early. The easy lower half can be climbed many different ways on trad or bolts (2013) to approach the four short sport routes above. These were rebolted in 2013 and are supposedly decent quality.
To the left of this is the obvious cave of Recital Hall. This area is in the shade pretty much all day, all year. There are several moderate trad climbs in here, as well as one mega-challenge sport climb rebolted in 2013.
The main face of Music Hall begins at the tall white slab and curves around the corner. The crack up the middle is the start of Wedding Route, which can be continued all the way to the top. Next is the challenging Musical Arete, which leads into the three (short) super-classics of this area. There are also lots of bouldering options around the bottom of these faces. The next face down is bordered by obvious trad lines, with two bolt lines going up the middle. The rock above here is chossy; no routes continue from these blocky ledges. However, there are several more decent trad and newly-bolted sport lines as you continue on.
Past the last bolted lines you will find the multitudinous fractures and fissures of the Broken Faces. Although it looks bad, the lines are mostly clean and present some of the best real jamming at Long Dong. Steal Your Face is an absolute must-do for any trad climber in the area. To the the left, easier trad climbs without anchor bolts create opportunities for bouldery top-ropes.
Beyond is the boulder field run-off from the Grand Auditorium above. Cross this over to the caves or Golden Valley about 20 minutes further.
From Schoolgate: Hike along the coast for about 20-25 minutes. Scramble over the boulders in the schoolgate area, pass the ponds and fishing holes until you reach the traverse. You can climb over the traverse or take it directly (easy 5th class), but be mindful of the fall -- it's a good six meters or so onto barely submerged rocks or coral.
Once you come out of the traverse, continue past the monobridge (building materials change seasonally) and make one more easy traverse. You should see a large face (Wedding Route) with a cave about 3 meters up. This area and the adjacent wall facing the Pacific is Music Hall.
Weather station 7.1 miles from here
26 Total Routes
['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
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Big Drum 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 50'
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Right side of Music Hall - Recital Hall, Sky Wall,...