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4. Moby Grape Area

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dark Hallow T 
Manhedral T 
Moby Grape T 
Moonshadow T 
Peppy's Face S 
Psyche Dike (Bradley Leblanc's unfinished variation) T 
Tip Trip T 
Union Jack T 
Vertigo T 
White Iceberg, The T 

4. Moby Grape Area  


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Location: 44.15888, -71.68362 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 135,404
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: lee hansche on Oct 23, 2011
Forecast:
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Guy following the beautiful thin cracks half way u...

Description 

Routes in the general area of Moby Grape, roughly defined as routes to the right of the Big Wall and left of Weissner dike. Long, clean, though often loose routes about 800' high. Vertigo, Moby Grape and more.

Getting There 

Walk the paved trail to the big boulder on the right with sign across the trial. Follow trail around boulder through trees and up the talus to the routes.

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.6 miles from here

10 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',3],['5.10',0],['5.11',1],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for 4. Moby Grape Area:
Moby Grape   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   
Union Jack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 400'   
Moonshadow   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 600'   
Vertigo   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0 R     Trad, Aid, Alpine, 4 pitches, 500'   
Tip Trip   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 90'   
Peppy's Face   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R     Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 140'   
The White Iceberg   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 400'   
Browse More Classics in 4. Moby Grape Area

Featured Route For 4. Moby Grape Area
Start of the crux pitch at the end of the grassy ledge.  The pink tat was fixed.  The other climbers are at the bottom and top of Vertigo's Half Moon Crack.  Photo by Paul Dale.

Moonshadow 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  NH : Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area
150' of sustained liebacking make this a memorable adventure. Pitch 1, 5.7, 150' (or, in the words of a guide, "Only 5.6 but be sure to send up your strongest leader.") Climb either corner to the top of a pillar (about 70'), then traverse 25' left under the large overhang, and pull the layback flake and exit right and build a belay level with a pointy flake. Look down and realize you are standing on top of the same massive flake you were underclinging on the traverse.Pitch 2, 5.7, 110'. Step...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Comments on 4. Moby Grape Area Add Comment
Show which comments
By bradley white
From: Plymouth
May 27, 2012
Dark Hallow should be at the bottom of this list.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Oct 4, 2012
If anybody is able to help number the routes in this section left to right, I can fix the ordering.
By Michael Z.
Oct 4, 2012
From what I know. Left to Right


1.Peppy's Face
2.Moby Grape
3.Psyche Dyke
4.Tip Trip
5.Union Jack
6.Manhedral
7.Vertigo
8.Moonshadow
9.The White Iceberg
10.And “Dark Hallow should be at the bottom of this list.”
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Oct 4, 2012
Thanks again!