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DescriptionRoutes in the general area of Moby Grape, roughly defined as routes to the right of the Big Wall and left of Weissner dike. Long, clean, though often loose routes about 800' high. Vertigo, Moby Grape and more. Getting ThereWalk the paved trail to the big boulder on the right with sign across the trial. Follow trail around boulder through trees and up the talus to the routes. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for 4. Moby Grape Area:
Moby Grape 5.8 Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade III
Union Jack 5.9 Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III
Vertigo 5.9 A0 R Trad, Aid, Alpine, 4 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III
Featured Route For 4. Moby Grape Area
Peppy's Face 5.12a R NH : Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area
This route has three distinct cruxes. The first twenty feet involve sustained 5.11 micro-edging (see picture) with good protection. After moving left to the third bolt, the route goes up a shallow groove with a difficult mantle to clip the next bolt. (I took a 40 foot fall on this move on the first ascent!) A short traverse right brings the leader to the crux -- a sequence of pure friction moves that seem impossible. (Full disclosure: Paul, Tom, and I gave the crux about 100 tries before To...[more] Browse More Classics in NH
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