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4 climbers 2 ropes
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By Medic741
From Pittsford, New York
Sep 15, 2012
When I was a bum at Frey

So..... A climbing trip turned into leading 3 pretty new climbers and they want to go multi pitching at the gunks. The issue is I only have 2 ropes and really don't want to buy another if I can help it. So I want to make sure this setup is accurate. I'll be climbing with the second rope on haul loop

Lead rope to 1st follower.

'Tag line' (old rope I use for tr) to 2nd follower. 3rd follower tied in about 15 ft above 2nd (who is tied into end of line) with an alpine butterfly w long loop w 2 lockers opposite and opposed.

Thoughts? Do I need a 3rd rope?

:p


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By Greg D
From Here
Sep 15, 2012
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W. <br />

Perfect.

What is your belay strategy. You could belay all the at the same time with an auto block device. But since you will be doing all the leading this may be tiring. Alternately, belay two up on one rope. Then, while your second belays you up the next pitch, your third can bring up the fourth. Less crowding at the belay this way, too.


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By Medic741
From Pittsford, New York
Sep 15, 2012
When I was a bum at Frey

Belay both lines simultaneously w weakest climber on lead line climbing first. Give that climber about 15 ft head start w 2 stronger climbers taking down anchor and climbing w at least 15 fr between them and 1st follower.

I do like the idea of bringin the 2 up... That's a really good suggestion


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By Greg D
From Here
Sep 15, 2012
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W. <br />

You may want most experienced to go first to clean the gear and help manage things at the anchor.

Also most experienced may be best suited to deal with butterfly.


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By Em Cos
From Boulder, CO
Sep 15, 2012

Steer clear of overhanging terrain unless you're very confident all climbers can handle it. Two climbers hanging in free space on the same rope would be unpleasant.


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By Medic741
From Pittsford, New York
Sep 15, 2012
When I was a bum at Frey

Perfect. Thanks for the advice! Greatly appreciated


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By J Antin
From Denver, CO
Sep 15, 2012
First morning at Indian Creek!!!

Em Cos wrote:
Steer clear of overhanging terrain unless you're very confident all climbers can handle it. Two climbers hanging in free space on the same rope would be unpleasant.


That never happens...


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By Nate Reno
From Highlands Ranch, CO
Sep 15, 2012
Ellingwood Point Summit, Little Bear in the background.

AntinJ wrote:

nope, never


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By Medic741
From Pittsford, New York
Sep 15, 2012
When I was a bum at Frey

Holy CRAP.


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By Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Sep 15, 2012
At the BRC

Aren't the pitches pretty short in the Gunks? Why not just tie into the middle of the rope, bring one of the beginners up on each end and the fourth on the other rope? Pick your climbs carefully so you have nice big ledges, should be a great time for all.


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By Medic741
From Pittsford, New York
Sep 16, 2012
When I was a bum at Frey

Wtf didn't they just lower the 2 climbers...??? So many people just simply should not be climbing


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By Robert Cort
Sep 16, 2012

Medic741 wrote:
3rd follower tied in about 15 ft above 2nd (who is tied into end of line) with an alpine butterfly w long loop w 2 lockers opposite and opposed.


In general I don't like the risk of falling on a cross loaded carabiner (even if there are two of them). The reason we always TIE in when climbing is because you can't control the position of the carabiner while climbing or falling. My preferred alternative is for the person in the middle of the rope to tie in with a bowline on a bight (clip the end of the bight to something either with or without Yosemite finish so it can't come untied (it can't if the bight is clipped somewhere)). That way you are actually tied into the rope rather than being clipped in. That being said, your method works too.


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