3rd Crack Over  5.8+ R

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Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.8+ [details] FA:  ? Submitted By:  Orphaned on Sep 20, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

The 3rd crack over

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The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>> Unknown by many people, the land, from at the LDS Church record vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. The privately-owned areas include The Fin, The Thumb Area, Green Adjective Gully, Schoolroom Area, and Gate Buttress. Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing. Currently, climbers are welcome visitors in part because of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access. In 1998 through 2000 this area was quarried and is presently under restoration and re-vegetation. The climbers' trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the trail so that this area can recover. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

After coming up Tarzan or Sweet Jane there is a sub-belay about 40 feet up. From anchor climb like your going up Sweet Jane but instead of going right go straight up a crack that slams shut. Near the terminus of the crack make a move to the left (towards Cheetah) into a really nice crack. Finger jam your way up this crack to it's end. Grab the chickenhead at the top (and wish there were 8 more), then slab your way (no pro) back to the Tarzan/"tourist variation" crack (right) where it changes cracks.

It looks possible to go over to Cheetah but the run-out looks longer and maybe harder.

This crack was packed flush with dirt and moss. After working it with a nut tool it turns out there is a nice crack under it.

Location 

The 3rd crack to the left of Sweet Jane. The crack closest to Cheetah.

Protection 

A rack of nuts,a blue HB offset (crux piece for me, but I am sure you could wiggle in something else) TCU's and a handcam for the finish.