Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 783 total · 4/month
Shared By: Tyler Phillips on Sep 20, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


3 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

After coming up Tarzan or Sweet Jane there is a sub-belay about 40 feet up. From anchor climb like your going up Sweet Jane but instead of going right go straight up a crack that slams shut. Near the terminus of the crack make a move to the left (towards Cheetah) into a really nice crack. Finger jam your way up this crack to it's end. Grab the chickenhead at the top (and wish there were 8 more), then slab your way (no pro) back to the Tarzan/"tourist variation" crack (right) where it changes cracks.

It looks possible to go over to Cheetah but the run-out looks longer and maybe harder.

This crack was packed flush with dirt and moss. After working it with a nut tool it turns out there is a nice crack under it.

Location Suggest change

The 3rd crack to the left of Sweet Jane. The crack closest to Cheetah.

Protection Suggest change

A rack of nuts,a blue HB offset (crux piece for me, but I am sure you could wiggle in something else) TCU's and a handcam for the finish.

Photos

0 Comments