An alpine slabber's paradise. This 3rd Apron from the left is probably the lowest angled one of the bunch but is the smoothest as well. 25-30 minute approach from Summit Lake parking area.
P1. This is starts near what appears to be a rounded arete on the right side of the Apron. Fire up 80 feet of low-angled rock without protection until you gain a thin crack (5.7) that takes wires & small cams to a nice ledge, 150 feet.
P2. Go up and left to a shallow, left-facing dihedral, then left to a right-facing dihedral and friction (5.7) up to a small stance, 140 feet. #5, 6? hexes useful for belay.
P3. friction up 5.7 with little pro (psychological crux) and move right to an angling stance, 150 feet. #2 TCU and hex useful for belay.
P4. up over an overlap, up, finally L across arete to spacious belay, 165 feet. #4 Camalot and 2 longer slings useful for belay.
P5. 3rd class to the top.
Quick descent in obvious gully to the right. Fun, a bit spicy for a 5.7 leader. Followed by a first-time climber.
A standard light rack of wires, hexes, and cams to #4 Camalot. 50m ropes adequate.
BETA PHOTO: Third Apron.
Artie & James.
"I'm too stoned to climb on the Black Wall, let's ...
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
Aug 15, 2002
Goats like the ledge about one pitch up on the right of the blunt arete here. Beware when you poke your head around the corner here. 2 were watching our descent yesterday from this vantage point.
Jul 11, 2005
I'll add to the description:The route we followed started by scrambling up to an 18 inch wide ledge that almost cuts across the entire bottom of the formation about 40 feet high. 1st pitch, towards the right of this ledge there is an inviting finger crack that angles up and right, climb this crack to its end and continue straight up to a shallow, right-facing corner. Climb this corner with scant pro. A ways up there is a right hand, sidepull flake on the face to the right of the corner. This flake has a pin that is not visible from below, this pin is useful. Continue straight up and set a belay near the end of the rope. You are now on the rounded "arete" on the right side of the formation. This pitch felt a touch harder than 5.7 and has some enjoyable runouts. Pitch 2, Continue more or less straight up the rounded arete passing discontinuing features with some pro here and there, enjoyable 5.7. Belay near the end of the rope. Pitch 3, climb straight up to an overlap and pull up and left over the overlap. Continue up to an obvious stopping point (several options). Scramble to the top.