36 Views of Lone Mountain  5.10a

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Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.10a [details] FA:  Bob Branscomb, Ed DeLong 2006 Submitted By:  bob branscomb on Mar 18, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Sticky situation MORE INFO >>> This place is desolate and dangerous WYO desert with very few amenities nearby, and zero assistance should you find your pretty-little-self in a bind. The people are ornery and the land is mean. I don't recommend coming here at all. If the rednecks, miners, roughnecks vagabonds or land doesn't get ya, some dehydrated whacked-out windblown sunbeaten climber just might. . . . Sweetwater Rocks and adjacent areas require LOW-profiles and LOTS of respect and consideration. Keep all fences/gates as you found them. Do not build fires. Adhere to all posted signs. Do not drive off of existing paths (roads). Do not let your dog run around (chances are great that it'll be shot, bitten, trampled or fed upon). Do not take anything from this land. . . and do not leave anything. Good BLM quads are essential (make sure they're up to date). Granite Mtns (Sweetwater) area closures are adjustable and are done so via ranchers and BLM officiales. Great tracts of this area are privately owned; meaning that they are always closed. For example: Lankin Dome BLM as of last year was closed 04-30 thru 06-31 for public AND private lands; between 03-01 thru 04-31 it was closed on private land. So, sometimes private easements are opened, and sometimes they aren't. . . same with public lands; oh, and mining claims too! Pay particular attention to any signage and postings. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Start up a pretty, clean slab below the left end of the roof system that caps the lower part of this wall. The first 10a crux is off the fourth bolt, stepping up and left. Go straight up to the roof, step over and head up and slightly right into a shallow trough. The second, slightly harder, crux is here, pretty squeaky smearing for a few moves. The second pitch is considerably easier, 5.7 or 5.8 with good positive holds all the way.

Location 

This route is on the initial wall you see as you drive into the Moonstone, left of The Faster We Go, the Rounder We get, below the left end of the roof system that caps the lower part of this wall. The first four bolts curve up and left.

Protection 

Bolts, 3/8" Fixx. Fixx rappel rings at all belays. Many quickdraws, but take a couple of single runners for the roof. Rappel the route. 60m rope required. Two 60m ropes required to rappel the route.