357 A2-
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | A2- [details] |
| FA: | Aaron Rashaw Steve Dupuis September 27th 1998 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Aaron R on May 10, 2010 |
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BETA PHOTO: 357 - Steeply overhanging crack that needs freeing
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Description This is a right leaning/overhanging crack that goes from 4 camalots to blue TCUs. We thought this would be a burly free climb for a NH back country hard man/woman.
Steve and I were sleeping in a tent when a Bear started circling. Steve said to me "cover your ears," then fired off a couple warning shots with his 357. All you heard was the Bear thrashing through the woods at high speed.
Location This is the left most route in the alcove we did. It is a right leaning/overhanging crack. As one exits the top of the alcove there seemed to be a bunch of dirty crack options for a second pitch.
Protection Standard NH rack. The anchor is pins and slings.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 10, 2010
| Is this it?
If it is, would you mind if the anchor is upgraded to 2 bolts and rings. I think they are safer and less visually obtrusive than pins and slings. I would really like to try to free this |
By Aaron R
May 10, 2010
| Yup. Killer! No problems with adding bomber anchors, I'm all for it. Hope you guys free out this stuff! |
By Aaron R
May 10, 2010
| Any picture of the route I listed as The Endurance? I think that would be a good candidate for freeing. |
By seth c
Aug 28, 2011
| The anchor has been updated to Two bolts with wire nuts for hangers. The pins pulled out by hand quite easily. If you go to try this bring two hangers for half inch bolts and maybe some new webbing or cord. |
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 28, 2011
| I have a couple hangers I can put on them next time I'm out there. Are they set up so two quicklinks on each hanger will work well? I'm trying to get away from sling anchors out there. How did the climbing go? |
By seth c
Sep 1, 2011
| The bolts already have one quick link on each nut so all you would need is two half inch hangers and two more quick links. The climbing is hard very sustained and painful. The line is so beautiful though that you forget how much it hurts and how bad the approach to get there is. |
By Aaron R
Aug 1, 2012
| Anyone bag this thing yet? Pics? |
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 2, 2012
| No. I don't think anybody has touched it since Seth checked it out. I haven't been able to get out there as much as I wished this year and it is hard to find competent and adventurous new-routers to come along with any regularity. It looks like it needs a fair amount of cleaning to be in the prime condition it deserves and it is so steep and leaning that it's kind of difficult and slow going by myself. |
By Aaron R
Aug 4, 2012
| Hard to believe you can't find a partner, there is a lot of untouched granite out there. Have fun on your adventures! |
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Mar 13, 2013
| The more recent attempt at an anchor should be replaced. Judging by a few stashed extra bolts and talking, it looks like a standard sized bit was used for metric bolts. That may look "close enough", but severly weakens the pullout strength of the anchors. They should probably go 20 feet higher too, at the top of the Alcove, though the initial crack ends at a stance where they are currently. |
By john strand
From: southern colo
Mar 13, 2013
| Proves again, just 'cause you have a drill doesn't mean you know shit.
I really wish that potential f/a folks would at least, maybe do one route with someone who knows something |
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Mar 13, 2013
| I think it was an oops moment.
I wonder how many metric Petzl bolts are placed in the states using non-metric bits. I bet a scary number. |
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