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Polished as glass, the crux is.

Id# 3200471,  Dimensions: 960 x 1280 - View full size 
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By brian ivins
Nov 6, 2010

Terrible Name.

In the '79 Wolfe/Dominick guide it's called "Black Tide" Put up by Stichter and Wolfe.

I think there's some jiggy-ness going on here.

I guarantee Long, et al pulled some hanky-panky to get the name change.

I mean how could these guys screw up a first ascent? Especially an F7?

Anybody?

By RTM
Nov 6, 2010

The story goes that Stichter started the route, drilled the first bolt, then left to finish it the next day. Long, hiding in the bushes, completed (stole) the FA as soon as they split!

By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 7, 2010

from the pen of the Large one himself:

"Ken Stickter and about ten other guys were working all day on what later turned out to be the classic route, "Black Tide," 5.8 (or whatever it is). The boys worked all day on the thing and got all the bolts in but bailed owing to darkness. I can't remember how it came down but we sneaked in there and dashed up the thing before they returned and we had the gall to call it "Stickter Quits." Of course we didn't bother to put in any belay bolts or any of that so when the "fist ascent" party came back and finished the thing they saw the chalk marks and had to wonder but credit went to them anyway and that's fine by me."

By RTM
Nov 8, 2010

Ruthless!!

Thanks, Will, for that morsel of history!

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Polished as glass, the crux is.

Submitted By: David Evans on Dec 9, 2003
On this route:
Stichter Quits (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b )