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31 5.12 redpoints before i turn 31
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By Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Sep 2, 2012
15/20 Neptune Spear
Big pulls on good holds and a constant struggle to fight the pump.

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By zenetopia
Sep 23, 2012
i am the OP of this thread (lewis_slc). I haven't posted in a long time but have been keeping up on everyone's progress on their own goals. Nice job! I have learned a lot about the importance of failure while traveling the road toward success this season. Altho my 31 redpoints before i turn 31 project's deadline has come and gone,(and i didn't even come close) i am still plugging away at it. Today i redpointed my 4th 5.12 of this climbing season, Condor, 5.12a. Keep at it all. This thread & everyone who has participated in it has been a breath of fresh air compared to what normally goes down on this site. Keep the updates coming!

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By Kirk Miller
From Golden, CO
Sep 23, 2012
Bugaboos, 1978 <br />Photo by Ken Trout
What's more impressive, 12 .12s before you turn 12 or 60 .12s before turning 60?
Do 12 year olds climb 5.12? I know 60 year olds do.
How about 13 .13s before turning 13?

I'm just sayin'

Props on all the hard sends for sure!

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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Sep 23, 2012
zenetopia wrote:
i am the OP of this thread (lewis_slc)....Altho my 31 redpoints before i turn 31 project's deadline has come and gone,(and i didn't even come close) i am still plugging away at it. Today i redpointed my 4th 5.12 of this climbing season, Condor, 5.12a.


So what, in your experience, were the biggest factors that prevented your from reaching the goal?

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By Nick Stayner
From Billings, MT
Sep 24, 2012
Nick Stayner near the crux. Ryan Minton photo.
zenetopia wrote:
This thread & everyone who has participated in it has been a breath of fresh air compared to what normally goes down on this site. Keep the updates coming!

For sure.

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By John M Ross
From Fort Lauderdale, Florida
Sep 24, 2012
super bowl wall in rock canyon!!!

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By Greg G
From SLC, UT
Sep 24, 2012
The route in it's entirety.
zenetopia wrote:
Today i redpointed my 4th 5.12 of this climbing season, Condor, 5.12a. Keep at it all. This thread & everyone who has participated in it has been a breath of fresh air compared to what normally goes down on this site. Keep the updates coming!


Nice work Lewis!

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By Price
From SLC, UT
Sep 24, 2012
zenetopia wrote:
i am the OP of this thread (lewis_slc). I haven't posted in a long time but have been keeping up on everyone's progress on their own goals. Nice job! I have learned a lot about the importance of failure while traveling the road toward success this season. Altho my 31 redpoints before i turn 31 project's deadline has come and gone,(and i didn't even come close) i am still plugging away at it. Today i redpointed my 4th 5.12 of this climbing season, Condor, 5.12a. Keep at it all. This thread & everyone who has participated in it has been a breath of fresh air compared to what normally goes down on this site. Keep the updates coming!


Why did you change your username?

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By ErikaNW
Sep 24, 2012
Rapping off the Matron October, 2010
Hi Lewis - I read your blog and it has been interesting to hear about your journey this year - thanks for sharing your story. You are a good writer! You inspired me to take on my own version of the challenge this year. I may or may not be successful (still have a couple of months), but just pushing myself with a set goal like that has been great for my confidence and getting out of my comfort zone. Anyway - just wanted to say thanks for the inspiration, and keep writing!

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By zenetopia
Sep 25, 2012
"Hi Lewis - I read your blog and it has been interesting to hear about your journey this year - thanks for sharing your story. You are a good writer! You inspired me to take on my own version of the challenge this year. I may or may not be successful (still have a couple of months), but just pushing myself with a set goal like that has been great for my confidence and getting out of my comfort zone. Anyway - just wanted to say thanks for the inspiration, and keep writing!"

Thanks a lot. I truely appreciate it. Good luck on your goal. Every night before you go to bed, ask yourself, 'what did i fail at today?' & be proud everytime your fail - it means you tried.

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By Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Oct 7, 2012
16/20 3,2,1 (soft) 5.13a

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By Jon Rhoderick
Oct 20, 2012
My goal of 12 .12s in 2012:
1. Planet Mechanic
2. Heinous Cling
3. Try to be HiP
4. Cool Ranch Flavor

1/3 done and got a couple more up my sleeves. Climbing at Smith provides me with plenty of inspiring climbs, partners, and role models.
Keep getting after it people,
Jon

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By Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Nov 3, 2012
17/20 Jug Abuse 5.13b
After pitching off the last move six times, seventh is a charm. What a brutally techno-power route.

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By Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Nov 7, 2012
18/20 Burning 5.13b
A true route-climbing test piece. Pumpy steep climbing to a crux, then more pumpy steep climbing to the chains. Great up-side-down fun.

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By John M Ross
From Fort Lauderdale, Florida
Nov 7, 2012
some really technicall .12 up in LCC and a couple in Furgeson canyon right next to BCC

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By Alvaro Arnal
Administrator
From Aspen, CO
Nov 7, 2012
Pup Tent OS
Looking good, Brendan! I went through a long stint of no sending (wedding season), but I had a good weekend in Penitente Canyon including my first 5.12 onsight and I'm currently at 26/31. Almost there, and honestly I can't wait for this goal to be finished!

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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Nov 7, 2012
El Chorro
Ryan Williams wrote:
My goal is/was this: To have 28 "hard onsights" in my 28th year. I set the parameters at 11c sport or harder, and 10c trad or harder. If it's multi-pitch, I have to onsight all the pithces, and must lead the crux pitches.


Well yesterday was my birthday. I sort of lost track of it all but I am pretty sure that I didn't make it to 28. Probably 22 or so. But mny of those flashes/onsights were at an area that I had not climbed at before and that is a big part of climbing for me - exploring different areas.

With a lot of my 2013 trips being to alpineish trad areas, I'm not sure what kind of goals to set.

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By zenetopia
Nov 8, 2012
Nice job, Brendan, on getting Burning! such a cool looking line. 18/20! Damn, man...almost there! Nice job to everyone getting their goal, or atleast trying. Ha, i was only 2/31, but as soon as my dead line came & went, i was able to calm down, & send 6 more 12's, including my first .12b. keep at it, people!

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By Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Nov 24, 2012
19/20 Barely Legal 5.13a, Pequop, NV
Limestone crack climbing? As hard as it is strange. Brilliant rock with a double crux.

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By Josh Triplett
From Bountiful, UT
Nov 24, 2012
Just turned 28, I've had a few .11b onsights and conquered some 11c and d without redpointing, looking to train hard and crush come spring '13. My plan is Pyle Surgery 12a (BCC, S-curves, the pyle) as my first 12. Totally stoked, I love the OP's idea. Maybe once I get that first 12 I'll stick to hard stuff more often. I don't know anyone right now that climbs 12, looks like it is time to make some more friends over at the gym in Holladay, UT. Hit me up if you are in SLC and are training hard this off season and need a catch.

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By Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Dec 12, 2012
At the BRC
37/55 with two snowy weeks to go.

Almost 70%, so a C-.

I'm pretty happy with that gentleman's C.

Didn't think the goal was very helpful. In the long run, I would have been better off focusing on climbs (harder or easier) that would make me a better climber, not get me another checkmark on the list.

Had a goal to climb 100 days a year at one time. Maybe I'll make my next goal climbing 200 days a year.

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By Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Dec 15, 2012
20/20 Wicked Bender 5.13a
30 degrees and snowing, but there was ample parking.

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By zenetopia
Dec 16, 2012
Nice job, Brendan! That is really great you kept updating us on your progress...you kicked some ass man... Really, well done! Congrats!

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By Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Jan 7, 2013
20 5.13s in Utah/Nevada Ranked by Quality

The Perfect Child
The Perfect Child

#1The Perfect Child, 5.13a, The Horn

#2'Amplification' 5.13a at The Hot Zone, Middle Fork of Maple Canyon.

#3Barely Legal, 5.13a, Pequop, NV

#4Nerve Agent (sic) 5.13a
This is the next route right of The Big Smile at the The Narrows

#5Special Forces

#6'Limestone Cowboy' 5.13b at The Billboard

#7Burning 5.13b

Bell Curve
Bell Curve

#8Bell Curve 5.13a, Wendover, NV

#9Neptune Spear

#10Bullocks! 5.13b The Compound, Maple Canyon

#11Jug Abuse 5.13b

#12Underdog 5.13a

#13Wicked Bender 5.13a

#14Teardrop 5.13a

#153,2,1 (soft) 5.13a

#16'Stalker' 5.13a, Box Canyon, Maple Canyon

#17Malvado 5.13a

#18Old Peculiar 5.13a.

#19Shoot 'Em Up 5.13a

#20Naked Knuckle 5.13a

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By Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Jan 8, 2013
I promised a review after I finished so here it is. This was the first real goal I have set in climbing. By 'real' I mean it conforms to the rules laid out in Eric Hörst's article here.
Goals like this are a crucial step towards meaningful improvement over a climbing career. Each one of my climbing sessions suddenly gained purpose. Was I moving forward towards my goal? By defining my goal, defining my current level, and making a roadmap to close that gap, I had a plan every time I went to the gym.
It also changed my attitude at the crag. I had a limited number of days so every one had to count. I could not leave a route for another time, it needed to get done, today. This limitation forced focus and perseverance, qualities that I didn't have in the past.
I am glad Lewis provided the spark and hope the link above helps others set good goals for the new year.

Finishing up 20 13s before 2013 with 15 days to go.
Finishing up 20 13s before 2013 with 15 days to go.

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