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31 5.12 redpoints before i turn 31
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May 18, 2012
11/29
Freak Magnet 13a Deep Creek

12/29
El Hondo 13a Deep Creek
Ryan J
From chattanooga tn
Joined May 15, 2007
46 points
Administrator
May 23, 2012
Hogwarts: Imperio Direct (5.13a)
Just got 10/31 yesterday which puts me about a third of the way there! All the routes I've done so far have been 12a (hardest 12a/b). I've been able to get the last couple of 12a's in 2 or 3 tries; time to start working 12b's and 12c's! Alvaro Arnal
From Aspen, CO
Joined May 2, 2010
1,522 points
May 28, 2012
A pretty good Sunday was had:
6/20 'Amplification' 5.13a at The Hot Zone, Middle Fork of Maple Canyon. Awesome! 30 meters of slightly overhanging endurance. Onsight.
7/20 Shoot 'Em Up 5.13a 16 Powerful Moves!
8/20 'Stalker' 5.13a Also in Box Canyon. Cool feature with vertical crux.
Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Joined Oct 26, 2006
396 points
May 29, 2012
"This thread is a very clever way for multiple people to spray.

If I could "like" the concept, in an abstract but meaningless way, I would."

Come on now, his name is Holden Caulfield...he has to be a phony...but deep down he is just an innocent, scared little boy...but yes, move on...
Woolymammoth
Joined May 24, 2012
0 points
Jun 10, 2012
9/20 Underdog 5.13a today.
Fun slab to desperate crimping crux. Good rock.
Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Joined Oct 26, 2006
396 points
Jun 11, 2012
I've been watching this thread for a while and it has been very inspiring. My goal is 12 5.12s in the year 2012. I've been pretty hard at work for number 1 here at Smith, I have never felt as much of a mental/physical barrier in my climbing as the 5.12 grade, it's left me bloody sore and gasping for air with some decent whips of course. I'll keep y'all filled in. Jon Rhoderick
Joined Jul 21, 2009
591 points
Jul 5, 2012
10/20 Bullocks! 5.13b The Compound, Maple Canyon
Brutal high crux dependent on a dicey heel-toe cam, really fun!
Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Joined Oct 26, 2006
396 points
Jul 5, 2012
Nick Stayner near the crux. Ryan Minton photo.
JLP & Woolymammoth- priceless posts up there. Nick Stayner
From Billings, MT
Joined Mar 6, 2006
2,606 points
Jul 5, 2012
mmmmmmonkey
Jon Rhoderick wrote:
I've been watching this thread for a while and it has been very inspiring. My goal is 12 5.12s in the year 2012. I've been pretty hard at work for number 1 here at Smith, I have never felt as much of a mental/physical barrier in my climbing as the 5.12 grade, it's left me bloody sore and gasping for air with some decent whips of course. I'll keep y'all filled in.


What ya working on Jon? Ellie has been getting after Latin Lover. I am still injured as shit, with an impending surgery July 17. My goal is still to climb 5.13 again by my 30th birthday.....April 4. Gonna be some work.
Matt Sedor
From portland, or
Joined Jan 8, 2008
30 points
Jul 6, 2012
Good to hear from you Matt! I put down Planet Mechanic pretty quick, but I'm way more psyched on putting away Heinous and Chain Reaction and a few others I'm really close on. Good luck on the surgery I'll probably be moving to be closer to Smith and Trout Creek in September so let me know if you need a partner once you start climbing again. Jon Rhoderick
Joined Jul 21, 2009
591 points
Jul 6, 2012
Awesomeness!
@ Jon Rhoderick: I have the same 12 .12's in 12 goal. I am stuck on #2 because I fractured a finger on the day I redpointed the last 12. I'm hoping for a productive fall, figuring a trip to Jack's Canyon or similar will get me back on track.

Keep posting!
Chris Horton
From Tucson AZ
Joined Jul 3, 2010
260 points
Jul 8, 2012
Brendan N. (grayhghost) wrote:
10/20 Bullocks! 5.13b The Compound, Maple Canyon Brutal high crux dependent on a dicey heel-toe cam, really fun!

Sweet!
tenesmus
Joined Jan 7, 2004
2,621 points
Jul 11, 2012
13/29
Silverman - Concave

14/29
apocalypse
took it to the second anchors

15/29
Phil of All Evil
one of the hardest "a's" ive done
16/29
conception
double rig day
Ryan J
From chattanooga tn
Joined May 15, 2007
46 points
Aug 8, 2012
11/20 Nerve Agent (sic) 5.13a
This is the next route right of The Big Smile at the The Narrows
If anyone has a more accurate name, post up..
Superb route. Stone as good as the Smile at a lower difficulty. Knee pad helps.
Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Joined Oct 26, 2006
396 points
Aug 9, 2012
Man Brendan... this thread has been going a long time...you, i think, out of anyone who has regularly posted their progress, have really been getting shit done! Great job man. 9 more to go! Keep on it!! You ever need a belay in SLC, send me a message. I would love to help! zenetopia
Joined Jul 18, 2012
29 points
Aug 11, 2012
Thanks Zen, it was a good idea and I'll sum up it's merits when I am done.

12/20 Special Forces
Boulder problem, jug, boulder problem, jug, boulder problem, jug . . . .
Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Joined Oct 26, 2006
396 points
Aug 12, 2012
13/20 Malvado 5.13a
The route you love to hate. 30 feet of wretched, slimy, cryptic power endurance, and yet, I came back a dozen times.
Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Joined Oct 26, 2006
396 points
Aug 13, 2012
Bermuda, DWS
yeah, kudo's to Brendan. This turned out much harder than I could have imagined. 1/31 as of now so at this point I'd be ecstatic with 12. Gangsta 12a at Lilly Bluff has been my one and only and with an entire September free I hope to make some progress soon. Javier L
From Asheville, NC
Joined Sep 23, 2010
575 points
Aug 14, 2012
The route in it's entirety.
Summer time goal was to fire my first 12a. I succeeded today!

Liquid Oxygen 12a Division Wall
Greg G
From SLC, UT
Joined Oct 3, 2008
592 points
Aug 14, 2012
Mathematical!
Greg G wrote:
Summer time goal was to fire my first 12a. I succeeded today! Liquid Oxygen 12a Division Wall


Congrats Greg! Liquid O is also my project for my first 12. Great climb, can't wait till I can get the redpoint too.
Finn the Human
From The Land of Ooo
Joined Jul 11, 2008
123 points
Aug 14, 2012
Photo by Aaron Lavinsky
Good job, Greg! Welcome to the 5.12 club! RyanJames
Joined Feb 23, 2010
611 points
Aug 15, 2012
Great quality rock on this one!
I have a goal to lead an 11 on gear (hopefully RP) by year's end (I've only lead one trad 5.10d but got onsite). I have one picked out The Prow (11a) and certainly have worked it on TR a few times. Just need the courage to jump on lead. Hopefully this weekend after an FA attempt down in West Clear Thursday!! Mark Mueller
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Nov 4, 2011
176 points
Aug 15, 2012
Taylor Ogden wrote:
Congrats Greg! Liquid O is also my project for my first 12. Great climb, can't wait till I can get the redpoint too.



Taylor Ogden wrote:
Before my accident 1.5 years ago I was breaking into the 12s.


????


Nice job Greg, the confidence from the first one can make them start falling like dominos.
Will S
From Joshua Tree
Joined Nov 15, 2006
1,274 points
Administrator
Aug 15, 2012
Hogwarts: Imperio Direct (5.13a)
Wow lots of people making progress since this thread started; nice job!

I guess I should update my progress here as well to keep the motivation up. My goal is to climb 31 5.12s in my 31st year (turned 31 in January). So far I'm at 20/31. 15 of these are 12a or 12a/b. 5 of these are 12b. Just to make it harder for myself, I really don't want more than half of my 31 redpoints to be 12a, so going forward is going to be tougher!
Alvaro Arnal
From Aspen, CO
Joined May 2, 2010
1,522 points
Aug 19, 2012
14/20 Old Peculiar 5.13a.
Pretty fun once you figure out its weirdness. 95 may be too hot to climb vertical limestone.
Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Joined Oct 26, 2006
396 points


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